Originally Posted by D_o_S
I do have some more questions though...
I was taught how to sit at the BMW Fahrer training in Munich, twice actually. Granted, it was a year ago, so I don't remember everything, but they said you should try to sit as HIGH as possible - with about a fist or so above your head. This seems to make sense, because it allows you to see the road ahead better (i.e. you can see closer to the car) - therefore, you can decide to dodge potholes, etc. more precisely. - maybe this is what you're saying, but it's hard to make sense of " but are still able to see clearly. ". Is approx. a fist height/10 cm to the roofliner acceptable?
Also, to "Remember also, your shoulder blade should be touching the seatback with your wrist....." - I like this, but I have a question. They taught us to do this at the BMW school, but I can't remember if they told us to do it with the shoulder blade leaning against the seatback. At the moment, I can do it by moving my shoulder away, but it feels comfortable and natural. I can also turn the wheel more than 180 degrees with my hands at 3 and 9. Right now, I think I have approximately a 120 or 140 degree angle in my arms. The wheel is almost completely "tucked in" to the dashboard - maybe 1 or 2 cm out. I think that if I move it further out, my hands will be bent too much? What do you think?
Also, what is the proper sequence for seat/steering wheel/mirror adjustment? I was taught (IIRC):
First seat height - fist above head
Then seat forward/backward - so that you can depress the clutch/brake/accelerator fully and still have a bend in your leg
Then seatback/lumbar support
Then steering wheel - wrist on top of wheel
any further tips welcome.
For street driving, yes, you want to be a little higher than on the track. If you do lower your seat to the fist width and it's lower than you're accustomed to, it'll feel weird at first, but then you will like it after a while.
Your shoulder should not come off the seat back when checking for the shoulder - to - wrist length. Pull the steering wheel out.
Adjust the length for your legs first.
Then adjust the seat back - to - wrist length
Then adjust the height
Major importance when adjusting mirrors. They are SIDE VIEW mirrors, not another set of rear view mirrors. They should NOT be looking down the side of your car. This makes them useless. You should turn them out quite a bit. You should be able to loose sight of the vehicle behind you (as the pass on your driver side), once this happens, they should appear in your side view mirror. You should be able to see them until the nose is essentially right next to you (you'll see the very tail of the car in the mirror still, but the nose of the car will be visible with just a quick glance). In no way should you have to turn your head sideways to see the car next to you. When you turn your head, if the car in front of you suddenly slams on their brakes, you could be eating their bumper. Do you think racers turn their heads to see if a car is next to them going 150mph?
Try it. It's very odd at first and it does take some time to trust the mirrors, but it's much easier to move through traffic. Even my wife likes it now.
Another tip: set your interior dash lights as LOW as possible. The bright lights of the dash hurt your night vision. By dimming the dash lights, it allows your eyes to better focus in the dark.
2015 GTI S, 6M, LP, Volk TE37SL 17x8.5, Michelin PSS 245/40, HPA SHS Coil-Overs, Peloquin LSD, Sachs SRE, Eurocode F/R Sway Bars, SuperPro Control Arms, Remus Catback, APR Stage 1 Tune, APR CAI, Aero Force Gauge Pod, APR Boost Gauge, Kersher Front Lip, Short Shifter, Tyrolsport Deadset, Stoptech BBK, HPA Dogbone
2008 BMW Z4 3.0si Coupe - because racecar