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      09-04-2011, 06:07 PM   #4
The HACK
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Drives: 2006 MZ4C, 2013 Veloster Turbo
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jerry Brown's little tree-huggin' state

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1. Get car corner balanced and aligned. Max out camber up front, or as much as you're comfortable with. 2.5-3.0 degree will give you a decent compromise if you drive the car on the street too, as much as 3.5 will give you a good baseline if it's primarily driven on the track. Max out camber in the rear (probably around 2 degrees). If the car's driven on the street, about 1/16" toe-in front, 1/16" toe-in rear. If the car's primarily driven on the track, 1/16" toe-out front, 1/16" toe-in rear.

2. Start from the stiffest setting available for compression and rebound, then dial back as necessary for best grip. There isn't going to be a perfect setting for every track and every situation, you'll find that once you have a good baseline you'll be moving the rebound up or down a little from track to track, and compression based on how rough the track surface is. On the West coast, Buttonwillow will definitely require a softer rebound than say, Laguna Seca.

3. RacingBrake front and rear rotors with a good track compound, like Hawk DTC-60 or better, or Cobalt XR-3 or better. Don't mix track compound with street compound.

After that, it's all about taking tire pressure and temperature readings and adjusting pressure accordingly, and adapting your driving to the natural "rate" of the car based on the above baseline rather than continue to play with "setting."

This thread will be better served if you guys include settings for specific tracks. But even then, with diverging skills and styles of driving, there's little you can really gain from knowing what someone else's setting is except to set a baseline for yourself to experiment from.
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