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      11-26-2011, 03:14 PM   #12
DimSum
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Drives: SLOW
Join Date: May 2008
Location: LITTLEBIMMER.COM

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Alright so its directly wire tapped to the purple wire (red), and brown wire (ground).
No need for canbus/error cancelers because of the coding I had done on the car.
HID ballasts are not 8-amps. They are truly only around 3-amps and this is only when they ignite for the first time from being cold. After 1-2 minutes they reach efficiency (warm enough) drawing only 20% of power to produce 80% of the lighting (being less than 2amps).

Here's the catch, the hid ballast I used in the picture seem to be a cheaper HID kit however is not the truth. It is actually manufactured by a very reputable company producing automotive products for Japanese cars for quite sometime. The housing is just generically stamped and sold to a different market. I am not able to say which brand/manufacturer.
But! I will tell you, after coding, most quality ballast on the market will/SHOULD work perfect.

Costs involved were little to none for me, I wholesale HID kits so I just grabbed the second best quality ballast I could find. However I can say that the kit I used retails for $160.00.
What you need is a H3 kit. Do not go with 12V kits, get something that rates 9-16v if you do plan on buying the HID kit from somewhere that is your first time.

Of course if you plan to DIY this, it is at your own risk!
But I am telling you, it is EFFING BRIGHT!

Last edited by DimSum; 11-26-2011 at 03:21 PM.