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      11-27-2011, 03:11 PM   #21

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

Originally Posted by luckyu View Post
Thanks for giving your experience! But, can you be a lot more specific? What does it mean they keep everything planted? What exactly is the difference? Keeping in mind that we understand perfectly the theoretical benefit of replacing bushings with ball joints; I'm asking about what you felt. And what does it mean, steering input is increased? Steering accuracy and on-center feel are very important to me, but your description could mean so many different things... I know you're just trying to share your experience, I'm trying to get some rigor here.
Quite simple, I think you've answered your own question. If you know "the theoretical benefit of replacing bushings with ball joints", then the outcome is (what you are looking for) "steering accuracy and on-center" feedback. It just that simple.

The "difference" is the spherical bearing eliminates slop and alignment changes that stock rubber bushings under load. Unlike DAFish's direction, my focus and direction was to supplement positive lateral input by changing three of links (rear guide arms, rear upper link, and rear toe arms) and at track geometry changes.

Without changing the M3 sub frame bushings, this link system will not cure the rear suspension wallow that most of us complain about. There's a drastic reduction of wallowing through moderate and sharp turns on comparative basis to a rubber bushing links. As mentioned here and other threads, I do highly recommend swapping the rear sub-frame bushings for the M3 ones first (or simultaneously) before any other suspension link upgrades.

More importantly having installed: M3 front end bits, sway bars, performance shocks, and performance tires all together contribute in how I want my car to behave. For me it wasn't just changing the rear toe links; rather, a total suspension package changes (with more upgrades to come) to meet a more "planted" feel.

Originally Posted by luckyu View Post
Why? It's hundreds cheaper to do the rear arm first and see if it solves the issue. If you do the subframe bushings you have to decide whether to do the m3 rear bar at the same time, and that's a big change to how the suspension works.
True it's cost efficient to have the arms done first, but (retrospectively) I think it's best to have a solid and firm foundation accomplished first (if you can afford it). Then one can confidently build up from there. I should have changed mine bushing along with when changing the rear sway bar and shocks. Otherwise, you're chasing your tail like I have (in a couple months I will performing the swap).

Here are some pics to how the links look installed at the rear:

Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s

Last edited by Thumperx; 11-27-2011 at 05:38 PM.