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      01-13-2012, 12:28 AM   #4
EosDigital
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Drives: 335i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St Louis, MO

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Anti-Seize

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vasil View Post
Just want to re-emphasize the importance of #20. Definitely apply anti-seize to the hubs otherwise its going to be difficult to get the rims off after months of salt and inevitable corrosion.
Hate to bring an old thread back to life but I want to stress that the anti-seize may be the most important step. I have changed many flat tires and am not a lightweight but I had to wrestle with my front two seized wheels to get them off. I don't think anti-seize was used when they were last removed. On a scale of 10 (10 being the highest), I would say the degree of the seize was a 9.8. I was able to get them off but it took every ounce of energy I had to get them off.

In my experience, what made seized fronts so difficult was that the front wheels rotate freely and if you apply force unevenly to one side of the wheel, that wheel turns to the right / left and you can hear the opposite wheel turning with it as they're designed to. Also, I'm guessing that lightly tapping some area of the wheel with a a rubber mallet may have helped loosen it up.

In retrospect, I should have simply put the lug nuts back in and driven to a mechanic.
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