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      01-13-2012, 11:45 AM   #8
blawrecne
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Drives: 2011 335XI
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hartford, CT

Posts: 13
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Continued (with pics).

Removing the door:


Here is door removed. I can't find the link right now but BSW has a good one showing how to do this and how to pop the door handle connection out. Use a t20 driver to get the screws out.



Next, I pulled out the old window sail to replace it with one with a window sails (part nos. 51 33 7 171 201 and 202) My old ones had the foam so I just transferred it over, no need to order it.

The new sail:


Putting the tweeter in was very simple, just carefully get it to lock in (took about 30 seconds) Some others have said you needed to trim some tabs but that was not my experience:



with the foam:



So, what come out of door was one crappy 4inch and no tweeter. I showed the new tweeter sail above but below is all the hardware that went in the door (the old speaker is on the right). Took a little bit of doing to get the 4inch in, try flexing the door panel a bit if you get stuck.



I now attempted to try to put the window sail back in. Make sure to roll the window down first when you do this on the drivers side. I wasn't an issue on the passenger side (the driver's side could roll it down). On the driver side I had to reconnect the window connection, roll is down, and then unconnect to set the door aside (this was definetly a "duh" moment).

The sails can be tricky. I kept having to refer to the driver's side to make sure it looked right. When I did the driver side, it was hard as well -- its just an awkward piece.

Now, the underseat subs. Using the t50 driver remove the seat connections. Then, more the seat all the way forward on its tracks and use the controls to tip the seat back into a "fully upright position." I had already done this, but if you have not, REMOVE THE BACK SEAT. Its easy to do in the sedan, just pull up. This allows you just tip the front seat back and have access to the floor woofer without removing then front seat.

Now, remove the grill on top of the underseat (phillips screw driver).



On the two corners furthest from the door, are 2 10mm bolts. Unscrew them. The back one was hard to get at, hence the $5 tool I described above.



Getting the sub out of the enclosure was not painless. I knew this was coming but was surprised at how securely is glued in. I was expecting a dab of glue -- it went completely around. Ken to the rescue -- he told me to pretend it wasn't may car and pry the sucker out. It worked.

I screwed the new ones using the adapters Ken provided and they were prewired. The fit perfectly!

Comparison of old underseat (right) to new.


After some wrestling around, the enclosure goes back in. Now, in comes the harness ken provided. I connected the old connection to the 4pin terminal and the underseat to the 2 pin. Hard to understand without seeing it but put it this way -- there was no way to screw this up, I just plugged the stuff in. I then removed the panel by over the carpet by the door (just pull up). I was really worried about running this wire. Turns out, you can just tuck it under the trim all the way back to the back seat. (Technic explained this in one of the 100 posts I read). Then, pull the white plug in the picture below (the pic is of the back seat with the "seat" removed)



and you are in the trunk with no exposed wires:



I next connected the electronics (minus power) in the back and then reversed the above process on the passenger side. My only snafu was that I pulled the molex connector off the tweeter on the driver side. Well, I was finishing this come hell or high water so, good old twist and tape method, and will go back and either remolex connect or use crimp connectors when I get my new door connection tabs/plugs to replace the two I broke from the dealer.

Next post I'll describe the back end connections.
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