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      03-22-2012, 08:13 PM   #58

Drives: 335I coupe
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SE Michigan

iTrader: (77)

Originally Posted by mave198 View Post
The front from what I've read seems easy enough to understand in regards to upgrading, it's the rear that confuses many of us..
Not too hard to understand. The M3 series rear bushings (in durometer and shore values), sway bars, and shocks are harder, thicker, and firmer than standard 3 series cars. This firmness or stiffness promotes more feedback and input into the chassis of the car. Now regular 3 series are technically luxury cars (firmness is not desirable for this niche of buyers). Where as the M3s are performance cars, and firmness is desirable for this niche of market). Not to mention, all the geometry changes among the two types of cars.

This difference or upgrade is what most of us seek out from the M3 performance components. If one pieces one system or part at a time, then issue this and issue that becomes revealed. Ask a few questions here on the forum, then we realize how upside down we (I) are (am). Install the correct parts, my God, worth ever friggin' penny (expensive hobby or lesson/s). By the time one realizes how much work or/and money has been spent, one could have bought a real M3 (hahaha). And that is the key, are you willing to step up to transform your regular 3 series car? It's pleasurable experience.
Name: Blanca | 07 E92 | AW-Blk | ZSP | Alcon BBK | M3 Bits | VM RR Links | Koni | UUC Sways | V5 | Dinan CAI | ETS IC | Fge DV | ER CP | Cyba | Raden. Exh | Mod Step | Trunk Drawer | Perf LED Wheel | Illum Dr Sills | IS Shifter | Parrot | Philps D1S | 6000k fog | MTECH RR | CSL Trunk | Aero | Roof Spoiler | PSS on BBS RS-GT 19s