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      09-13-2012, 07:35 PM   #28
DavidZ
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Drives: '11.5 E90 M3
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland USA

Posts: 227
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For the hard to get screw, you need a screwdriver you can change bits on, and you need to be able to put a "wobble" (maybe also called a universal joint or elbow - they're usually used with ratchets) on it as well. I have a Tamper-Proof Bit Set from Griots Garage which had the screwdriver handle and bits I needed and I just used a 1/4" wobble from my ratchet set.

Here's the Tamper-Proof Bit Set:


Here are the parts I used, the bendy part is the wobble:


Everything connected:


Obviously I put the short end with the Torx bit on the fuse box screw while I twisted the long end. It was still really hard - you basically have to get the bit into the fuse box screw by feel and luck and still hold it in while you turn.

As for the orange and green wires, from one of my posts in this thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidZ View Post
Yeah, it's strait forward. I was going to make a DIY but I didn't take any pictures and it's strait forward enough that I'd imagine anyone attempting it should be technical enough to get it done. The only part that had me scratching my head when I was reading the instructions in advance was this step:



Seemed to me they want you to locate the OR/GR and GN wires in the wiring harness and splice into them (if that's the case I would think the picture should show a 3rd wire coming out of each "miniature connector)... but, yep, that's exactly what you need to do. I thought it would be next to impossible to find those wires on the harness, but it didn't take me too long to locate them. I undid the harness at the red part I circled, found the wires and used the "miniature connectors" to splice into them. I didn't even have to code my car - I don't have iDrive and my rear speakers do the beeping.
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'11.5 M3 sedan | Jerez Black Metallic | 6MT | M Performance Exhaust | no DCT no EDC no NAV no nonsense
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