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      11-07-2012, 04:18 PM   #26
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roundel335's Avatar

Drives: 13 335i Sedan, 16 228i Cabrio
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Leland, NC

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Originally Posted by shortseller View Post
Roundel335, thank you.

And yes, can't wait till full gains are achieved...also the CAI / FFE are not completely off the table, they just need to be added at more club friendly "used" price levels which looks to be not hard to obtain based on the used market place.

So what the hell do I do with this badge thing?

Thanks for all the support guys, like I said before "it's all good and getting there is more important than how we do it", these are great cars! Regards to all.

There's much more to S3 than .5 PSI - it's between 14.5 and 15 PSI at the top, which is Dinan's recommended "safe" limit for their warranty purposes. At that point, you need the FMIC and OC to take advantage of the boost level and maps and keep the IAT and oil temps under control. It's the right approach instead of gambling with your $15K engine. After all, his stuff is the only aftermarket engine/driveline/chassis tuning you can buy at a dealership and keep your warranty (new or CPO). 20+ years of building engines for professional racing teams probably has a lot to do with that.

I bought my FFE used (1 month old - original owner wanted a full catback setup) and my CAI as on clearance at a dealer in Houston, both for about half-price. They make a big difference out on the road. Besides, dyno numbers are just that - numbers. It's how it feels out on the road that matters. I shift at 6100 as Dinan recommends; it definitely ain't no slouch like some of the trolls here think. But again, it's what WE think that's important.

Don't do the badge's not necessary. It's almost as silly as listing all your "mods" in your signature.

2013 F30 335i M-Sport 8AT/MPE/MPPK/JB+, 2016 228i M-Sport Cabrio 8AT