Originally Posted by TyPe-ZeRo
I've been trying to replace my Rear Right Door Lock Actuator for the past week with no results. I used this guide, along with the one to replace the Window Regulator (which I did last week) to gain access to the Door Lock Actuator.
Basically i've hit a wall, so-to-speak here, with my experience trying to replace my Rear Right Door lock actuator. My problem is that though I have complete access to the Door Lock Actuator via the removed paneling of the interior door frame, I cannot open the door, mechanically, because the Door Lock Actuator is STUCK or CEASED in the 'Locked' Position. I believe that the gears or something inside the Door Lock Actuator part, are broken and sadly I am not able to manipulate the actuator to open it.
In this scenario, i'm familiar that Google keyword of 'ceased door lock' is most appropriate. However, all relevant material, have not been particularly helpful in allowing me to progress any further. Anyway, what I found out through reading the aforementioned posts is that with a small flathead screw driver, you should be able to manipulate the door lock using the interior gears to move the door lock in and out of locked and unlocked (See Red Circle). However, unfortunately for me, because the gears are supposedly broken, I cannot 'unlock' the door lock actuator this way and this is where I am stuck.
Naturally, before arriving at such a conclusion, is that I tried messing around with two levers located on the sides of the Door Lock Actuator. They seem to function to some degree, but I am unsure if they actually work. This picture is me holding the new, replacement OEM Door Lock Actuator, comparing it to the broken, mounted Door Lock Actuator located in/on the interior door frame.
Being that the levers do not work at the local level, I can dismiss the notion that the issue is due to the Bowden Cable
I'm really stuck here. I don't know what to do.
Now before anyone asks or mentions if I had replaced the fuses, I will say that I have physically inspected all of the relevant fuses: 2, 19, 56, 57, and 63 they all seem to be fine from a quick removal and inspection. I had texted my newly acquainted mechanic friends at the BMW dealership I purchased my car at to get some clarification -- I didn't wanna basically get privileged information but I wanted to be put on the right track: He said that I should check the pins in the actuator connector, after that, check the fuse voltages, with a multimeter. This I haven't done yet, but I intend to do this check tonight when it gets cooler because it's really hot out today haha.
I guess I could preemptively replace all the fuses, but that wouldn't rule out a cable power supply issue...
This seems to have occurred to several people (don't know how). But it seems the solution is a combination of picking the actuator. I'm sure you can look at the photos and create a solution. But here's an inside look.