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      11-21-2012, 01:18 PM   #25
robc1976's Avatar

Drives: E90 335i
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Illinois

iTrader: (14)

Use new studs (Get 20-25 incase you have to take manifold off, or threads get damaged ect):

Here is bolt pattern I used to get manifold on evenly, I ujsed the tradioutional way (star) and gasket got squished (slightly nothing bad):

Way to take stud off nut without hurting threads, use bolt penatration liquid first:

Use #45 Torx socket...a 11mm socket gets stuck most of the time on the nut:

There is access from the top on a lot of the bolts:

Here is how the heat-shields are placed once on the turbos are installed, start to put these on BEFORE tightening manifold:

Front turbo:

Rear turbo:

Before installing front turbo loosen induction tube for more clearance. After front tubo is installed connect vaccum line to actuator, if you wait you will be sorry lol!! Make sure induction tube is flush on turbo after:

Wait to connect these lines until both turbos are installed:

Front turbo on!!!

While rear turbo is loose conect these lines together (Once bolted there is no play in the line):[/b]

Oil line can be very tight, basically hard to hold in place with gasket wheile lining up holes, bolt in one side with the gasket on....then slid gasket over and tighten the other side:

Top coolant lines can not be fully installed untill turbo is instalklled fully, put coolant line end lined up with holes (top right corned on front turbo and top left of rear) and when turbo is bolted down it will push line in)....Sorry couldnt get a pic.
JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295