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      12-12-2012, 08:55 AM   #10
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zzzbullseye's Avatar

Drives: 2011 550i (F10)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: St. Louis

iTrader: (4)

Originally Posted by MrRetep View Post
Hi tom, you are on the right track getting advice better to be safe than damaging your car or worse, yourself. Before taking on any project the most important thing is having the right tools and make sure that they are good quality. For wheel swaps I personally like living on the edge so I will simply use a jack (no jack stands) and I do one wheel at a time.

This is my procedure.

1. Using a breaker bar with a 17mm impact socket. I loosen all the lugs/bolts on the wheel I will be working on with the car still on the floor, this makes it much easier.
2. Line up your jack with the jack point (plastic protruding piece under the car nearest the wheel you are working on) begin the lifting.
3. for safety (priority #1 while working on a lifted car) I raise the car high enough to fit one of the spare wheels under the side skirt of the car.
(see pic below) this is your "lifeline" so to speak, if the jack fails the car will land on the wheel, saving your rotor/hub and most importantly any limbs that are under the car, which should be none to begin with granted you might ruin your wheel and sideskirt but i'd rather damage the car than lose a leg.

4. once your car is safely lifted, with a spare wheel under the side. You can remove the bolts/lugs the rest of the way and remove the wheel from the car.
5. Line up the new wheel, put it on the hub, add a bolt to hold it in place. then add the rest of them and tighten as much as possible.
6. double check the wheel is on properly (no wiggling, etc) remove all tools from under the car, remove the spare safety wheel. SLOWLY lower the jack until the car is back on the floor.
7. using a torque wrench set to 98ft/lbs tighten the bolts until you reach the desired torque. double check all of them, twice so technically quadruple check. You DO NOT want these falling off.
8. rinse and repeat for the rest of the wheels.

I noticed your location says Orange County, if that is Orange County CA. I would be more than happy to lend you hand and tools if needed
The torque spec listed above is inaccurate. The BMW torque spec for e90x wheel lugs is 87 lb ft, +/- 7. Most folks target 87 or 88 ft lbs. Be sure to re-torque your lugs to this setting after driving ~50 miles. A recheck once a month is not a bad idea either. This is the wrench I purchased and use - it's accurate, easy to set/use and has a nice solid feel.
'11 Black Sapphire F10 550i l ZSP l Avant Garde 20" M310

Last edited by zzzbullseye; 12-12-2012 at 09:50 PM.