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      12-13-2012, 11:15 PM   #163
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Drives: 335d
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California

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2009 335d US  [0.00]
Originally Posted by hookah66 View Post
Kudos to Mr.5 for a fantastic write up. Just did my rear pads (waiting for my fronts) on my '09 e93 and here are my two cent contribution:
I am a 62 years old fart and I did it in one hour 15 min, if I managed it you certainly can do it. I used simple tools: you need a 7 mm Allen 3/8 socket, small & big pliers, small hammer, flat head screw driver, 17 mm 1/2 inch socket for wheel lugs and a torque wrench. For supplies I used ordinary Centric posiQuiet semi metallic, synthetic high temp brake grease and non chlorinated brake cleaner, one can per wheel. Spray clean the calipers and the rubber of the piston prior to pushing in the piston. Open the fluid reservoir. Use light hammer to gently tap the spring back into the slot of the floating caliper. Did not and do not recommend taking the carrier part out of wheel hub unless you are also replacing rotor. Look carefully for the shiny worn parts of the old pads, and only dab those points of contact with the high temp synt brake grease on the new pads. DO NOT USE any gluey stuff such as CRC or Permatex. German floating calipers are not designed for that, note that the oem pads are NOT COATED with that gluey gunk. NEVER use any anti-seize compounds on the threads of high tensile bolts (bmw oem bolts are rated high tensile strength), otherwise you will induce "creeping" and premature failure of the bolt will occur. Be careful to lubricate the shafts of the shear pins only, but not the thread part. Looks like the shear pins threads were coated with LocTite. Watch out for the brake sensor (passenger side) it got a tiny small metal clip that can get twisted or snapped off. Otherwise just follow the instructions as posted by Mr.5. I only removed the shear pins of the floating calipers not the 16mm high tensile bolts of the carrier part. The Centric posiQuiet pads are so smooth compared to the OEM pads, now my bimmer glides to a velvety stop. No squeaks at all. You must immediately "bed in" the new pads. Have fun.
Good advice Hookah. One thing I had to go off and get in the middle of my job was a SYRINGE at Walgreens. The kind used for baby medications. It was on sale so I bought two. I sucked a bunch of brake fluid out of the master cylinder because I did all four wheels and didnt want brake fluid leaking around my engine compartment.

Edit: Oh and I had to replace the rear sensor which was worn down (mine is pre-May 2010, not sure how it works on the later models). Looks like BMW pulled off a brilliant move here: Rear brake pads $81, new sensor $41, (about a 33% increase in parts price) AND you have to pull the wheel liner off to get at the connection to disconnect the old sensor and add a new one, AND there are about four clips you have to disconnect and reconnect to remove the old sensor wire, so this adds around ten minutes shop time if you are not doing it yourself.
Speakers: CDT Audio HD-42 comps--front doors (RAAMmat deadened), CDT ES-06 6.5" woofers--kickpanl Pods, Hertz EBX202R dual 8" ported trunk sub. Amps: Phoenix Gold RSd 500.4 (comps & pods). PG RSd 600.1 (sub). Power & Ground: 4AWG Streetwires w/RockFosgt RFDB1 distro blocks. Input: HU lineout--Kicker KISL RCA adapters--RockFosgt RFIT-6 cables--Audiocontrol Matrix--Monster cables--RSd 500.4--lineout Monstr Cabl to RSd 600.1.

Last edited by Quasimodem; 12-19-2012 at 03:45 PM.