With all the concern about injectors and intake carbonization, I think it is even more important that we make sure our fuel filters are changed. So here you go:
Credit where credit is due: Great info on changing fuel filter in a 330d in this UK thread: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387120
Now, here is more info:
For parts you will need:
1. 13-32-7-793-672 Fuel Filter Cartridge (I got this from Tischer for $41.47)
2. Small hose clamp (I had to run off to get some of these in the middle of the job)
Besides a jack and ramps, For tools, you will need:
1. 8mm socket driver for removing the car bottom cover,
2. socket ratchet with small extension for bracket bolt (I forget size of bolt head),
3. small torx driver for filter clamping bolt,
4. big screwdriver or pliers to remove clip from rear of filter
5. cutters/hacksaw/dremel to remove band securing fuel hose to nipple of filter.
6. MOST IMPORTANT: EYE PROTECTION!!! Lots of crap falls down when you are under a car, and if you choose the dremel removal technique you dont want metal splinters in your eyeballs
1. I drove my front wheels up on ramps (I have to put some 1/2 inch pine boards in front of the ramps so the front overhang is clear, and I backed the ramps with the rock salt bags to stop the ramps from being pushed forward) and jacked up a bit from the rear driver's side (U.S. Left Drive Car) jack point. I did not jack the rear wheel off the ground, just gave myself more breathing room under that side of the car. Make sure el tranny is in park and your parking brake is on and I added bags of rock salt behind a two wheels to inhibit rolling (my driveway is slightly slanted). I also added a second jack under the body next to the main jack as a backup.
2. Slide under the driver's side and remove the bolts holding the cover on the left side of the car (there are around eight or nine). Rotate the entire cover horizontally until the slot on the passenger side of the cover aligns with the two lugs and the cover will come down and you can push it aside.
3. You will now see your enemy: the old filter. Remove the brack bolt with a ratchet and extension (not sure the size, probably around 14mm). Now a weird device with wires will drop free and you can push that out of the way. The filter will also be held only by the rear clip and the front fuel hose and crimp on type clamp.
4. You can remove the front fuel hose clamp now with a pair of cutters/hacksaw or dremel (be careful with the dremel as if it goes flying there are some other things around that it could damage such as a braided hose nearby).
5. At this point, I removed the rear clip with a screw driver (twisting) and worked the base (pump?) out of the rear of the filter and allowed fuel to drain into the catch pan. I then pulled the filter out of the front fuel hose.
6. After removing the torx bolt (T15?) holding the filter ot the bracket, I moved the bracket to the new filter, and installed the filter by twisting it onto the base, reinserting the rear clip, placing a new hose clamp on the front fuel hose, inserting the front nipple of the fuel filter into the front fuel hose, tightening down the front hose clamp, positioning the bracket so the hole aligns with the bracket bolt, tightening the torx bolt, and then installing the bracket bolt with the wierd mechanical/electrical device in its original position.
7. The linked post describes holding down the start button without touching the pedals for ten seconds and the car is supposed to remove the air from the fuel system. I tried this twice, but I am not sure how well it worked. So I would do it but YMMV. After this, I tried to crank it and it cranked for about 20 seconds and didnt start. Then on my next try it started. I checked for fuel leaks, found none and then buttoned up the bottom cover.
Good Luck and Happy Fueling!!!