I use a Motive Products Pressure Bleeder to do both brakes and clutch. Do the brakes first. You will have to remove the plastic panel under the transmission to do the clutch, but the slave cylinder and bleeder are right there. Very easy to get at, and at least on my '11 the bleeder is plastic so no worries about it being stuck. Though of course, that means taking extra care not to overtighten it.
ATE Super Blue is really meant for those who change thier brake fluid often, i.e. racers. You alternate it with the ATE Gold (same stuff sans the blue dye). Without the color contrast, hard to tell when the clean stuff is coming out when you just did it last week. Trouble is, it is NOT a low moisture absorbing fluid, and while its dry boiling point is excellent, its wet boiling point is not. It is also really expensive. Use the OEM fluid or something meant for street cars like Castrol LMA or Valvoline Synthetic.
I have seen some talk that the OEM fluid is a supposedly lower viscosity fluid than most, but the brakes on a 3-series are the same bits as a zillion other European cars, so I doubt it makes any real difference.
'11 328! Touring - Tasman on Chestnut, 6spd manual, factory upside-down "i" option
'16 M235i - Estoril on Oyster, 6spd manual, sunroof delete