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      04-06-2013, 01:16 AM   #12
bpas328xi
POWAH!!!
 
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Drives: 2007 e92 328xi coupe red
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Snowville

Posts: 111
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Garage List
1998 Jeep Cherokee  [0.00]
2007 328xi cpe  [0.00]
1998 F150  [0.00]
BUMPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!
UPDATE TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Found out that I tore a chunk out of my tire the last time I was Rausch... :beta1:


Goodies that need to be installed... :devil2:




Rugged Ridge upgraded steering. I absolutely love it. The steering feels a lot tighter and the "death wobble" that I used to have going around corners and over bumps is now gone.



Warm start revving.
302 Found

Quote:
Originally Posted by straightsixjeep View Post
Looking good!
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino's 99XJ View Post
Loving this build bro, you are not afraid of electrical work.. lol Keep it up!
Gracias. It's not THAT bad. Lmao :whistling2: I still have to figure out how to organize my relays and fuses since they're kinda just dangling off on the positive distribution block that's mounted on my firewall... :sick:

Since my laptop is finally back in working order, IT'S UPDATE TIME!!! :thumbup:
Why is Jeep on a lift?


To install the ATI balancer and and a smaller supercharger pulley for MOAR boost...

Umm... Okay. Maybe not to install a smaller supercharger pulley then.. :brickwall:

Still going to try and get the correct smaller pulley. :rockon:
Time for LED light bar shenanigans!! :euro:
Air tools!! Didn't use the impact though.


Made removing this even easier.


Herro.


Old wiring ripped out... I later found that a Daystar switch had developed an internal short which was the reason why my fogs and 100w HF lights stopped working... Oh well. I needed to redo my wiring better this time using split loom and better wire anyway. Piece of advice. Buy switches from OTRATTW instead because they use LEDs to light up their switches. (Daystar uses incandescent bulbs that can short Vout to ground).


The new switches. My dad ordered a bunch of switches and ended up buying some SPST ones that he has no use for, so I took those with the intent of putting green LEDs in them (mine came with red ones).


LED bar mounted. I must've measured at least 5 times... :dunno: Looks like it's only 1/64" off center. :thumbup:


Used 4 pin trailer connectors to make the bullbar and bumper easier to remove. (wires are doubled up and each light has its own connector)


Testing...


Still testing...


All off.


Just headlights and fogs.


All on. Those 100w HF lights look kinda silly and don't provide any more light, so I'm probably going to read this pirate thread and convert them to LED. Might do something similar to the fogs too.


These pictures were taken with my cellphone and do not do the brightness of my lighting setup any justice. It's really REALLY bright in person. :guns:

Truck-Lite LED headlights on low beam and 35w HID fogs.


High beam and fogs.


High beam, 100w HF lights, and fogs.


High beam, 100w HF lights, fogs, 10" LED bar, and 20" LED bar. :devil2: Not bad for Chinese clones ehh?? :notworthy:


Voltage at idle w/ nothing on.


Voltage with everything on. (it was dropping to 11v at times...)


So... I upgraded to an AGM battery. If I add any more lights/winch/stuff I'll probably have to look into adding a second alternator and battery... (still thinking on how to do this..)


And I watched this video which makes me want more LED lights.... Still looking for some LED taillights though. :confused1:
Brandon Palaniuk 2013 Rigid Industries [Truck Boat & Trailer] - YouTube

SNOW!!!!!


Did some driveway wheeling. Front swaybar was connected. Looks like my extended extended rear bumpstops need to be extended some more.... Or I need to start working on my idea to put a set of front flares on the rear. Already have a set of flares and brackets sitting in the garage. Just need to get a pair of front bumper endcaps.












Went out to test a modified version of the RAD shifter that my dad and I have been working on.. (more pics and vids to come soon) Of course it decides to snow. Lol. Aaaannnddd the MSD decided to take a dump..... No power steering or brakes is.. Interesting.


PROTOTYPE!!!


And my new shift linkage came.


Here's a little something my dad and I are working on. Gear position indicator and a modified RAD shifter. This video is just showing the gear position indicator with the transmission in "auto mode". My GoPro didn't capture the part when I shifted it in "manual mode"... :brickwall: I'll make a new vid of "manual mode" later. :beta1:

gear indicator - YouTube

Merging onto the freeway. Manually shifting at 5000 rpm. 32x11.5 tires, stock 3.55 gears, massive exhaust leak, almost full tank of gas, maybe a slight amount of belt slip. I've been meaning to tighten that belt for like a week and a half.. Lmao. This is why I hate putting on a new belt. They ALWAYS stretch and take a while to get all stretched out and finally hold a constant tension... Imma go tighten it in a little bit. Lol. :thumbup1:

merging onto freeway - YouTube

Quote:
Originally Posted by austinjoe13 View Post
Pure awesomeness!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke95 View Post
Holy ****. That is on fast Xj!
Hehehee. And I still have to put the smaller pulley on, get a 2.5" mandrel bent crossover pipe with a 2.5" high-flow cat made with a 2.5" electric cutout and a straight down dump (right after the header). Probably another 2-3psi more boost to come and maybe 30-50ish more horsepower?? Idk. It's gunna be sick come summertime. :devil2:

Not much of an update, but... At least I did some stuff. :stuart:
Tightened my belt. So much easier to do with a ratchet (instead of a ratcheting wrench) and with the e-fan out of the way.


Yupp... That's a low enough tension to cause belt slip. :


Mmmmuuuuuucccccchhhhhh better. :thumbup1:


Got annoyed with the fender liners constantly doing this...


So... I ziptied it to the horn bracket. And used a green ziptie for extra MAAAAAD jdm driftcar bonus points. :headbang: (actually... i couldn't find the black zipties.. :dunno


Did the other side to match.


All the junk I have in the back of my XJ..


Snagged some horns while I was at the junkyard last weekend..


My plan is to put them where they are in this pic (but a little higher up and behind the grille) with the trumpets pointing forward. And then wire them straight to the battery using a relay and trigger them with the stock horns. (yes. i like to use my horn a lot...)


I've been having some ignition problems for a while now (ever since I put the cheaper tune-up kit and MSD on)... So.. Tune-up kit from Performance Distributors is going to replace the other stuff. It that cures it, I'll probably try plugging the MSD back in.

So I'm off to do that and try to tighten the johnny joints on my control arms so I can get rid of my death wobble issue...

Moar pics to come.. :devil2:


IT FITS!!!! And I can close the garage door which means my heater will actually keep me warm... WINNING!!! :w00t:


Cap, rotor, coil, and wire upgrade from Performance Distributors.


Whoops.. :whistling2: The new wires are too thick to fit in this anyway. :laughing:




How did I get the coil out last time? Oh yeah. From below.. :001_huh:


Old coil on the left. New on the right.


Installed. :guns:


Supposedly you can run a sparkplug gap of 0.065 with this coil... Idk. I'm just going to be lazy and leave them at 0.035. :tt2:

LIFE!!!!!!! MUHWAHAHAHAAAA!!!!! That was definitely a more authoritative start.. So far, so good. :thumbup:
LIFE!!! - YouTube


Went to work on the control arms.. With a 2 foot breaker bar. :gunsmilie:


I've never actually seen a nut look like that.. No clue how it got like that.


Haha.. Whoopsie. :001_unsure:


Aaaaannnndddd fixed.


I was only able to get the driver's side LCA off and tightened as much as I could and greased the living daylights out of it.. Probably couldn't disassemble it because I might have hit it with a hammer a few times.. :whistling2: Gunna attack the pass LCA and the UCAs with the impact when I wake up (couldn't get enough strength/leverage to break the bolt loose...). Hopefully those other three CAs go a little smoother.. :boxing:


Finally have the Jeep all put back together... Took it out for a drive and the death wobble seems to be a little better and the ignition issues seem to be cured (only time will tell for certain).
I was having trouble with this bolt which bolts the UCA to the axle.. Couldn't get it all the way in and then couldn't get it out. Threads may have already been mangled..


Rolled the Jeep out of the garage and put it on a jackstand and took the wheel off to get more access and finally got the bolt out.


So since the bolt's threads were mangled, I ran it through a die and ended up re-threading it to M10x1.25 (i think it was M10x1.5 before)... :brickwall:


Because of that goof I had to re-tap the nut to match.. Which ended with this.... :cursing: The tap was also already mangled before I used it on this nut, so I couldn't get it to thread all the way through the nut. :brickwall:


Sooo... I went to Lowes and got a new grade 8.8 M10x1.5 bolt with washers and a nylock.


All bolted back together. For some reason my pass. UCA was about 4-5 full turns too short.. I have no idea if my UCAs are now different lengths because I didn't even bother touching the other UCA. Lol. And I couldn't get the pass. LCA bolt (at the frame) loose, so I gave up and just greased it. :dunno: Probably just going to get new lower johnny joints since the uppers appear to be tight and the lowers are loose. Lubed all the johnny joints except the driver's UCA... :boat:


Broke this when I opened the hatch and it hit the top of the garage opening... Well.. At least I know how the wiper comes off for when I finally get around to fixing it and making it work. Lol. Another thing to look for the next time I'm in the junkyard. Lmao. ops:


I also cleaned my rims with Liquid Wrench and WD40 while I was taking a break from that bolt. rofl.
BEFORE:


AFTER: nice and shiny. :rockon:





These two pics aren't directly related to the Jeep, but are as a result of it and are probably going to end up on a future project assuming that we (CobraMarty and I) can get some hardware for relatively cheap (i think that's the plan.. lol). The box on the left is a O2 sensor modifier and the box on the right is a fuel/timing calibrator. They are both made by Split Second. Managed to get them both for a hundred bucks. WIN! :guns: (iirc, these are off of that e90 that was supercharged, turbocharged, and breathing nitrous. )




Time for another boring update... Sorry guys. :001_unsure:

Replaced all of the door seals and the hatch seal with new ones.
Old seal coming off..


:sick:


New seal on.




Old door seal..


New seal.


Old vs. New


Driver's side done.


Passenger side done.



Oh yeah... I almost forgot. I also installed a smaller supercharger pulley. Went from a 2.5" pulley to a 2.125" pulley (2 1/2 to a 2 1/8 for those who don't like decimals. :tt2 :headbang:
I now hit 8psi@1/4 throttle, 10psi@1/2, maxes out at 12psi. This was on a 50* night with no manual shifter shenanigans. Not even a hint of detonation. Only running 3* retard (at 6psi. no more retard after that) and 89octane (mid-grade) gas. No belt slip. IATs seem to max out at about 170* before they start to drop (gotta stay in boost longer to see how low they drop. Lmao). So.. To the people who said the SPRINTEX S5-210 was too small for the 4.0 engine.. IN YO FAYCE!!! :smartass:


Sprintex supercharged Jeep Cherokee 12psi boost. - YouTube

One step closer to having my bumpstops sorted out..
BEEF!!!!!!

Last edited by bpas328xi; 04-06-2013 at 11:33 PM.
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