Originally Posted by whosdady
It's interesting. Originally we tightened to factory specs which is 46 lbs. We did this with load on the car. The springs made a terrible binding noise. I could hardly drive the car it was so embarrassing. Then we loosened it to 35 lbs and the noise went away 50%. Last night I noticed in the instructions where it recommends 37 lbs for the top hat/ bearing bolt. The PVC addition is a good idea. Would you explain it further. Thanks.
It has been 5 days and I am clunk free. Plus, the ride is spectacular. I love these coils. I came very close to throwing them in the trash Lol…. So, Rich explained to me that some coilovers come with rubber coverings for the last few loops of the springs to prevent the springs from moving or sliding past each other when under load. I think the convertibles have the biggest issue with this since our cars are heavier than the e92s. Just to let you know, I took apart my springs and shocks 3 times trying different methods before getting it right.
Once you have the materials as mentioned previously, you can try cutting the PVC tubing down the middle. The PVC piping is really tough plastic and comes in a long tube form. I went caveman style and heated it up on the kitchen stove to get it to bend around the springs. So obviously, I threaded the springs through the PVC piping in my kitchen. It takes time, don’t rush, don’t overheat and by no means get your springs to hot or the shape will change. Buy at least 10 feet of tubing just in case. So, I believe one loop at the top of the spring is close to 8- 10 inches. I actually pushed about maybe 18 -20 inches of tubing around the top of the springs.
Once you get the PVC on and threaded through the spring, you will continue to heat the PVC and spring so that you can continue to snake it around. The top spring needs to be exposed (with no PVC covering) so it can sit properly with the OEM rubber cover. Therefore, you only need to cover the second and third loop of the spring as this is where the springs will touch one another when loaded. Once you have the Second and Third loop of spring covered with PVC, you are all set. You will be able to see where the top loop of spring and second loop make contact and adjust PVC accordingly so it does not interfere with OEM rubber cover.
In order to get everything back together, I adjusted the lowering nut with the ST adjustment tool to its lowest setting. This way, you will not need clamps to compress the springs so you can get the top nut on. Once I put top nut on and screwed down by hand at this point, I adjusted the ride height with the ST adjustment tool up 2 inches from bottom or first thread. You won’t know how much this lowers the car until you put it back together with tires on but this was my personal starting point and there is no wheel gap where it is right now, so I’m happy with the 2 inch adjustment mark and obviously, I can lower it by another 2 inches.
Once I got the adjustment screw up to 2 inches from bottom thread and locked, I held the shaft of the shock with a wrench and hit the top nut with the gun. I put everything back together, drove the car and still noticed a clunking sound but nowhere as bad as before. I lifted up the hood, took apart the bar that blocks the top nut on both driver and passenger side and hit the top nut again with the gun and BAM! Noise is gone. I understand you’re supposed to give this nut a certain amount of torque and I tried that and did not work. Their simply cannot be any play in this assembly.
Oh, and just in case your still getting noise. I was about to try one more solution. I've seen diagrams of KW coilovers that use a washer placed before the top nut that holds everything together. I don't believe I had an OEM washer when taking off the original springs but if i was still getting noise, I was going to buy a couple that fit and try it out. Really hope this helps you.