Originally Posted by lincvert
Great responses, bespoke is definitely what I'm looking for. I wasn't familiar with that term but searching it on Yelp has resulted in a number of local places I plan to check out.
I used to be able to mix and match or buy off the rack with alterations when I was a 44 or 46. I'm 6'4", 240lbs with a 50" or 52" chest and shoulders with a 36" waist. The amount of tailoring it takes to get a jacket right is crazy. Most places won't even try it. At this point price is no object - I just need a few good fitting suits.
Unfortunately many of them are NOT Great Responses.
Brooks Brothers is not a good place to go for a custom suit. They offer MTM suits which border on the definition of "custom." They're also going to be fairly overpriced and the likelihood of the tailor being worth a crap is very low.
You have to understand the serious differences between OTR, MTM, and a true Bespoke suit.
An OTR suit altered by your local tailor is not custom. Every OTR suit should be altered and these are certainly not "custom."
MTM suits as I said border on the definition of "custom." The suit maker takes into account more measurements, but they are certainly not catered to you. All MTM suits should be altered by your local tailor and especially the ones you order online. MTM suits are the most cost effective approach to getting a good suit that fits close, but they should not be confused with Bespoke suits.
Bespoke suits are made from yards of cloth. They usually require several refittings and are truly custom made. If you're asking this question, you CANNOT afford a Zegna bespoke suit and I'd dare to say that no one in this thread can. A true Bespoke suit from Zegna would easily run you $5000 and probably closer to $10k.
Look at it like this:
Off the rack suits- the equivalent of buying an m3 with the options you want from the dealership.
Made to measure- Buying an M3 and adding custom parts to it to make it exactly how you want.
Bespoke- Asking BMW to create an entirely new car for you that no one else has. It might say BMW on it, but it wouldn't look like anything else.
My advice is this: A made to measure suit from a reputable tailor is the most cost effective approach. It won't be perfect, but it will be damn close. True bespoke suits are extremely pricey and if you can find someone to make you a true bespoke suit for under $1200 you've hit a gold mind.
Here in Austin, a good MTM suit with basic 120s fabric will start at around $750. The cheapest Bespoke suit maker I could find was around $1200 and he does work out of his house. A similar suit from a reputable company would cost around $1800-2000.