Update 3/24/20: long-term review is that a few weeks into this and now the car throws a cel almost instantly. See post below. Dme: 2F44 supply circuit code.
Update 4/3/20: I've moved NLS down to 150ms and need to do a lot of "cruising" to get the misfire counters to reset. then I can go back to doing launcehs and NLS. TwistedTuning is working on maybe disabling the 24FF code via tuning as a long-term solution!
Since an N55 specific guide doesn't seem to exist I decided to write up a brief DIY guide on how to install an N2MB WOT Box. I had been anticipating the release of MHD's launch control for N55, but, it doesn't appear to be in the works anymore. So, I scooped up a WOT Box to see what it's all about. Time to make some fun new noises this season!
For those that are unfamiliar, this little box is a piggy-back device that uses crank position data to momentarily cut power to your coils. This interruption is used in a handful of different functions such as "launch-control," No lift shift, and a rev-limiter.
You can learn more about the various features of the WOTBOX here:
http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox
Pin Out:
Installation:
[1]Prepare the engine bay by removing the cowl and electronic box cover
[2]Prepare the WOT Box harness. If you want to be able to remove the wire that run across the engine bay then quick connects are a good idea to use on the WOT Box BLUE, GREEN, and YELLOW wires. The RED and ORANGE wires can be cut short to like 12-24" as they will be connected to the coil power wire right in the electronic box.
[3]Ground the WOT Box to a place of your choice (bare metal chassis). I chose to use the bolt hole for the cowl and it worked out well.
[4]Identify the coil wire coming off the three fuse block in the electronics box. The fuse block should be easily identifiable. It houses a 20A fuse for the coils, a 15A fuse for the Injectors, and a 40A fuse for Valvetronic (yes 40A! hence the yellow electricity sticker on the valve cover lol!)
[5]The coil power wire is one of the RED/GREEN wires that run FROM the 20A fuse TO the DME. Cut the wire. Connect the WOT Box RED wire to the 20A fuse side of the Coil power RED/GREEN wire. Connect the WOT Box Orange wire to the DME side of the RED/GREEN Coil Power wire.
If the WOT Box does not work correctly at this point then you may need to cut all 6 red wires that go to the coil packs and interrupt the 12v signal from there. Just a fair warning to all that this may be necessary. Not all N55's have the same electronic box layout as my 2011 135i. Some show on Newtis.info that only 1 fuse carries power to the DME for BOTH the injectors and coils. Not sure what cars this applies to though!
[6]Move on to the drive side of the vehicle where the N55 DME is located (on the intake manifold)
DME harness identification:
The connectors are numbered. Should be pretty easy and straightforward for you to identify the correct pins/wires once you pull the connector and take a look at it!
[7]On the x6001 DME harness, identify pin 31 which is a BLUE/BROWN wire. This is the Clutch Signal wire. Tap the WOT Box GREEN wire into the BLUE/BROWN DME wire***.
[8]On the x6001 DME harness, identify pin 15 which is a WHITE/YELLOW wire. This is the Accelerator Pedal 2 Signal. Tap the WOT Box BLUE wire into the WHITE/YELLOW DME wire***.
[9]On the x6002 DME harness, identify pin 6 which is a YELLOW wire. This is the Crank Position Sensor Signal. Tap the WOT Box YELLOW wire into the YELLOW DME wire***.
*** I used posi-taps, but, this method is NOT recommended. Best practice would be to cut back the sheathing of the wire by about 1" and wrap your WOT Box wire around it. Then solder the connection solid so it cannot shake loose.
Once you've got the WOT Box all wired up you can move along to the software side of things. I tucked the WOT Box wires into the weather stripping for the cowl. To get the wires to run behind it, I had to notch the rubber a bit. The wires are not visible at all once the cowl is in place:
[10]Grab a laptop and install Version 3.9***** of the WOT Box software. I have been told v4.8 works as well but my RPM signal was reading twice as high using that version, so, I just reverted back to v3.9.
***** The older v3.9 Software can be downloaded here:
http://www.npcompleteperformance.com...erfaceV3.9.zip
[11]Set up the initial settings as depicted. The gas pedal should operate in a .35-2.0v range. The clutch should operate within a 0.0-5.0v range. Both should read "up" in their default position. Before testing, enable both launch control and NLS. Set the TPS voltage to something like 1.7-1.9v This will engage these features at slightly less than 100% gas pedal input. Then you can either leave those features enabled or disable them. The gas pedal "up" and "down" status is based on the voltage that you input into these boxes though so it won't read up.down correctly until you fill in those values with 1.7v+. Set the RPM source to "Mazda 3 or 6."
[12]Test the WOT Box!
DIY Video... I was rambling quite a bit as I was working, so, the above steps and pictures might be more useful as a guide whereas the video is informational/contextual:
Will update the video later if I can. Not happy with it at all. Looks fine on my phone but now that it's uploaded to YouTube half of the clips are upside down or an incorrect resolution/aspect ratio... not sure why...
Launch Control:
No Lift Shifting:
Initial Impressions:
Well I have to say, this thing is fun! However, it's not entirely useful. Even a fairly low launch-control settings like 3,100rpms completely blows the tires off. Car builds about 8psi of boost within 1-2s. It's a twin-scroll turbo after-all. Pretty much pulls and builds boost from a dead stop so launching with boost isn't really as necessary as a "big-single." The NLS is fun though and so is the rev-limiter. The artificial rev-limiter can prevent some torque reductions like the 2048 "sift-bog" from occurring (hopefully). Just be careful with how long you sit on the rev limiter. After about 5-6 seconds the car shut itself off. The DME sees the WOT Box operation as misfires and misfires over extended time cause codes. A quick 2-3s on the launch control or rev-limiter does not cause any issues though. Overall, it's a worthwhile little box!
Additional Pin Out data pertaining to 2011 135i (N55), Per NewTis.info:
