Originally Posted by WhiteSled
So let me get this straight, before i present my case.
stage 3 100 percent yada yada with 0 timing control made the most power right but was least stable ect and prone to knock. Obviously.
If your able to control boost by rpm you will not run into ignition issues once the tune is adapted. By subtracting your 2-3 degrees of timing on your stage 3 maps all your doing is giving the ecu a lil more cusion before it tunes it out anyway. Run into a hot day going up hill, it will knock and change the curve. Also can we see the fuel corrections on these graphs?
So this entire timing control thing with the n54 argument is based on the fact that your giving the car a lil more cusion initially but losing power. Its obvious your targeting this at the juicebox and i honesly am no juicebox fanboi, but i did run one and it did get me a 420plus dyno with only a couple of mods. Like i said, ive done extensive dyno/track datalogging and recorded actual vs intended timing. The juicebox has zero control(despite what terry claims), the standback, ive added as much as 7 degrees of timing and was running into the low 20s total advance at 16psi, it worked for a couple runs, and then dialed itself back out. Same thing with retarded timing.
So you ask yourself. Is making a post about controlling 2-3 degrees of timing that will lose power worth the power lose when the stock ecu rides the knock sensor anyway? I guess that up to the user, for me, its not, as long as your responsible and dont do anythign stupid liek run 18psi on 87 octane.
Please re-read my post and put understanding the data I presented a higher priority than trying to defend your dated opinion on this subject. The facts are now presented. There is no place or need for misinformed opinions any longer. For example, with regards to ign. retard, the ECU does not "tune it out" or "ride the knock sensor" like you claim. Please understand the post. Many of your other statements are also illogical/wrong.