Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iaz
So I take it you need 2 people to do this, if your going to bleed your clutch ... and ... instructions on bleeding clutch? Do you open and they pump or is there a method to it?
thanks
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I just did it by myself - took me just over an hour in total. Once you have the cover off the bits are amazingly clean.. wow! I used a simple clamp you use to glue wood etc to close off the hose (the base of these things is rounded, so doesn't 'cut' into the hose, and under the upper screw down bit I put a rubber pad I had. With these clamps you feel how much force you put onto the hose. One spring clip (metal colored) comes (jumps) out completely, the other (copper colored) just stays in the unlocked position. I pushed out the inner bits with an allen key, didn't even need the hammer. Thanks again to the one who found this out!!!
For bleeding the air the top half of my aluminium jack lever fits exactly between the fully depressed pedal and the left rail of the drivers seat.. so installed that, went under the car, opened the plastic bleeder so the clutch spring moves the oil/air out (ok is a bit akward to get to but if you use an open end 11mm spanner and flip it over between each movement it takes about 6 movements to crack it open). Closed it, removed the lever, pulled the clutch up (only the first time), and repeated this 3 times, on third no more air came out.
I agree with the other post you need to bleed. Air is not going to get out by itself, and you will end up with longer dead travel before the pedal feels firm. I think I will bleed it once more next week. Pedal feels great, but have the feeling i need to depress it slightly further. I lost very little fluid in the whole process, can't even see the level dropped in the reservoir