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      09-03-2010, 11:34 AM   #12
The HACK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevechan View Post
The fronts are lowered all the way down while the rears have about 1.5 turns left. The firestone guys said he couldn't adjust my rear since the rear was too low. Seriously, would that happen?
Sure. Like I said. As you lower the car, you increase static negative camber. There's only about .5 degrees of adjustment either way in the rear, and it starts out with a lot of negative camber from factory (certainly a lot more). The result of lowering a car past its roll center is that the negative camber increase dramatically and when you go past that point, .5 degrees one way or another is not going to bring it remotely close to stock.

For your sake, I suggest about -0.7 to -1.0 degrees of negative camber up front, and no more than 3/16" total toe-in. The rear you need about -1.5 degree of negative camber with at least 1/8" toe-in and you should be fine, even with your "aggressive" driving. This should give you fairly even wear all around.

But judging from the initial read-out from Firestone, you're probably going to need camber plates in the front to make this work. I don't know how camber can be added on the back of an E9X...On the E30/E36/E46 and their off-shoot (Z3/Z4) rear suspension adding or subtracting camber outside of the normal adjustment range can be done with camber arms. I suspect, based on the diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...30&hg=33&fg=30

It would appear that and adjustable replacement for part number 11 would serve the same purpose?
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