I agree with this statement 100%. The strut rod attaches at the same point relative to the body even with the lower caps. The caps only act to raise the top mounting position of the spring thus bringing the car, and with it, the top of the strut shaft closer to the ground. Without lowering the bottom mount on the strut, your struts will be compressed more than without the caps. This decreases your suspension travel, increases chance of bottoming out and frequency of engaging secondary springs/foam bump stops, and makes the strut work in a different range than it was desigend to work. Further, it will also lower the car's roll center (bad) and thus requires stronger springs than factory-spec to offset the new tendency to roll over more. Therefore, the car will be more inclined to lean in turns but also will more quickly engage the bumpstops. This may lead to sloppy transitioning and mid-corner bumps upsetting the car relative to a properly lowered suspension.
Originally Posted by boostd92
Uh .... Correct me here but that response concerns me. If you are lowering the body you are absolutely limiting travel of the shock (unless you are simultaneously lowering the lower shock mount as well).
If the spindle isn't moving and the body is, shock travel is decreased. If it's an upper spring perch moving the spring upwards, the shock nut is still secured to the upper shock mount that secures to the shock tower that is fixed. Because the shock rod is secured to the upper mount, If the body comes down, it's pushing the shock rod into the shock body by the same distance the car is lowered (0.5").
So aren't you in effect losing 0.5" of shock rod travel? Concerned on less stiff springs that you may be on the bump stops more often.