Originally Posted by zsapphire7
haha yes... Hack has a nack for sugar coating doesnt he ? but all that aside, what hes written down is absolutely right.
Hack, on a side note, if your suspension frequency/spring rates (front)are higher in this case, does that mean you can turn the steering wheel faster without experiencing this "understeer"?
He certainly does... after reading it, I felt like I should be using crayons, driving a nerf pedal car and wearing a hat with a propeller on it....
I think he may have some sort of Tourettes Syndrome... lol
From his Avatar, no wonder he knows everything... he is old... maybe his son from his Avatar can help him with some proof reading...
Uh oh, I maybe getting a "Your not going to like this. " coming. Just kidding HACK - all good fun !!
There was lots of good stuff in there for sure on driving. Some assumptions I didn't feel were applicable though.
1) I was not accelerating in the turn, the turn was initiated, and I was on balance and on the line I wanted. Then at about 90 or 180 degrees in the constant radius turn it THEN overwhelmed the front and started to plow (I won't use the word understeer - because I maybe retarded).
This probably is classic fast in, slow out as he mentioned... BUT my original post and point was that I felt the CAR can do better - and it can. This was what I was hoping for feed back on, what MODS can I do so the nut behind the wheel can get higher G forces?
For example: before I did my mods the car plowed a lot more at a much lower speed. Since the mods, I can certainly go faster around corners now with better balance. I have made progress. I feel there is further progress that can be made and hence the reason for the post and what I put in it.
Originally Posted by The HACK
Starting from the most simple and most basic, 99.95% of "understeer" is human error.
Agreed, you can't take corners at 400 mph.... even someone as retarded as me can "get" this. But as stated above and proven on the skid pad and slalom course.... you can make mods to the car that will improve grip, and speed in these 2 tests and that translates into higher capacity/handling in this car all round - IMHO. I have proven this with the Dinan suspension mods listed in my SIG.
Originally Posted by The HACK
Once you fix that part, the rest of the .05% of understeer can be fixed in the following manner: Add grip to the end that looses grip first, or take away grip from the end that still has it. And then, you have to figure out if the understeer happens at corner entry, corner exit, under throttle and HOW MUCH under throttle. If you can pin point where and when it's understeering and how, then you have a shot at fixing it.
This is what my original post was about and what I am asking for: E90Pilot stated and proved on his car that all square rims/tires increases front grip, and may reduce rear grip - equalizing and balancing the grip where it is needed to round out the balance. I can just feel another lecture series coming on this statement, but this is how I relate to it... hang on, let me get my flame suit on - bring it on HACK....
What I also gained from this thread is that the strut bar won't assist on front grip - I thought it would keep the geometry in place more firmly on hard cornering assisting front grip on a staggered setup. I won't waste my money - and thank - unless this is not true.
I will explore all square setups on rims I like. The problem is, I LOVE the look of the car, the 19" and the "stagger" look. The car is just beautiful.
I also don't really want to spend another 5k on rims/tires. I paid cash for the car and I would prefer the 5k go toward savings for my next car in a few years - which will be expensive. That said, I want the best handling I can get now.
2008 335i E92 Black, Procede Rev 2.5 (11-1 map), BMS DCI, AR Catless DPs, AMS FMIC, Procede PWM Meth, Forge DVs, CDV delete, 230s w/ 235/265 Michelin PSS, Dinan S3 susp w/ front/rear M3 arms (4), Wavetrac LSD, Subframe bushings, Dinan Rear Sway, Rogue toe arms, Stoptech Slotted rotors, Stoptech Street pads w/ steel lines