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      06-11-2011, 07:45 AM   #44
silvergrey525
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United_States
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Drives: 2006 525xi
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Newtown, CT


Posts: 2
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WP TS replacement success

Hardware location is passenger side front of engine. If you look down from the front of the engine between the radiator and engine while standing in front of the car, you will see the round shaped unit on the left side.

I replaced the faulty unit last night and all is good after letting the car run in the driveway for 15 minutes. Here's my follow-up input.

1. There is the short method and then there is the PIA long painful approach.
2. Install the WP with the U shaped hose attached and verify hose orientation prior to inserting the unit into place loose, no bolts yet.
3. Work the TS up into place and attach the hose clamp to the TS and secure tight.
4. OK - now you have the units in the car, floating and not bolted the vehicle.
5. Verify the position of the WP and TS attachment bolts, this allows you to verify that the final position of the secured U hose is good to go.
6. OK, here's the biggest trick, from the top of the engine, drop a small rope down through the engine compartment and loop around the TS and pull the TS up and out of the way. This process pulls the WP and TS apart so you have a visual for the rear WP next connection. Insert the WP rear connection to the short fixed hose. Basically, 1. You have to have the two units in the car at the same time. And, the U hose has the be attached as it's almost impossible to attach the clamps later.
7. Now the two units are in the car, WP rear hose attached as you had room to access the hose clamp, that's why you pulled the TS up as this makes the necessary room to access the rear WP clamp. Holly shxxt, did I really do that? The U Hose is flexed by this process and can take the abuse.
8. Release rope and remove, you’re done with it.
9. The WP now has the 2 hose attachments and were done with the WP.
10. The TS still has 4 remaining connections. 3 C clip and one flat tip hose clamp.
11. The TS is still unbolted and flexible as there is only the U hose attached, this is handy as we now need to move the TS around and attach the remaining.
12. Secure the WP bolts.
13. Reach up behind the TS and pull on the hose with the C clip collar and work on the TS, be patient, this project is about contortion and sore muscles as I did mine in the garage on my back.
14. Again, reach up behind the TS and grab the remaining hose which uses the flat tip hose clamp and pull the hose down and attach from the bottom. You may opt to approach this hose from the top. I was able to blindly attach the hose from the bottom but had to use a two foot extension to secure the clamp from the top.
15. The remaining lower hoses can be attached from under the car and use the C clips. I chose to lubricate the inside locking ring with minor grease application. Connectors are pretty high tech and I like them but also prefer the tight hose clamps, old school I guess.
16. Secure TS to WP, check all connections.
17. Attach both electrical connections. My WP has a loose clip which kept falling out and I couldn't figure out hoe to put this locking clip back in. I plan to secure some wire wraps around the WP as I didn't put this clip back in. Basically, I gave up trying to figure it out - darn it.
18. Make car level in garage.
19. Fill fluid to top, initiate bleed process, ignition on - pedal to the floor and wa-la, pump operated for 12 minutes and loosen cap, repeat process.
20. When the pump operated, I smiled.

I replace the TS because I was into the project and sure didn't want to revisit that project again any time soon. I'm sure that I could reduce the time in half if I was to revisit this project again. Bottom line, I won the challenge and saved 700.00 by doing the project myself.

No cuts but sore muscles for sure.