Quote:
Originally Posted by konvict
intersting- i just got mine back from BMW- $600 diagnosis cost later they say my EGR valve needs replacing. So im ordering a new one online for $260 instead of BMWs $450 and installing myself. BMW charging an extra $600 to install. anyone know a good DIY on installing online?
My aftermarket warranty covers none of this as apparently they classify it as emissions stuff and they dont pay for that... kinda dumb imo
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Konvict,
I don't have a pretty DIY typed up to offer. Remove engine cover by removing the 5 bolts. Unbolt the snorkel that connects to the airbox flow path. Your need either a T20 or T25, i cqn't remember which. Remove lower engine cover. A 1/4" (or is it 5/16") nutdriver works well here. Disconnect charge pipe from outlet of intercooler and other end at throttle body. The clips just pull up from "clicked in" postion but don't come off completely. Just go to the out limit point. Remove charge pipe. I can't figure out how to disconnect the the sensor's harness connection on this pipe so I just laid in on the engine to the drivers side apron area. It took some twisting and pulling to get charge pipe out but it will come out. You will have lots more fun getting it back down the passage later.
Anyone want to offer a technique for disconnection without distruction?
Continuing on now. Now that the charge pipe is off, use a 5 mm allan head hex to take throttle body off. I don't recall if there is a harness connection to it, if so, disconnect it. I know for sure there is a harness connection to the EGR valve, disconnect it. There is a hose clamp thing that attaches the flow path to the EGR, disconnect it. Use same 5 mm tool on EGR attachment to intake manifold. I recall there being a weird skinny plate/link thing that has supportive connection of the EGR to the intake as well. Remove it too if you need to (i did).
I cleaned both the throttle body and EGR flow paths with carb cleaner and a tooth brush. Most all came clean but some persistent stuff on EGR needed more scrubbing. If your putting new EGR on, obviously skip this step.
I don't have torque values to offer for reassembly. the parts are aluminum so don't go crazy or you will strip the threading. After the EGR and throttle body are back on (more on this in next paragraph), put the charge pipe back down the narrow path it needs to go. This will take some force but excercise care. Go back down underneath and push the charge pipe back onto the intercooler. Make damn sure it is all the way back on. Reseat the clip securing the charge pipe to the intercooler. Go back up top and connect the charge pipe onto the throttle body inlet. Same type of clip I believe.
I bought a nice craftsman set of the these T handles as the reach needs to be long to do the screws on the EGR itself. Fair warning, I had to be quite careful to not drop the allen head screws off into engine bay when both removing and reattaching. TAKE YOUR TIME and BE PATIENT. I found the T handles are handy when removing the engine cover. Make sure to reconnect all harness connections prior to starting engine. The T handle was too long to do the throttle plate screws so revert to normal allen wrench. I forgot to say put the wierd link thing back on during the EGR reinstall and reattach the EGR exhaust path's hose clamp. Make sure to line up the flange well while tightening clamp. Reattch snorkel, lower engine cover and top engine cover.
When i did this job last fall, it was the 2nd time around to check back how much had accumulated after 3000 miles driving. It wasn't too bad.
ask additional questions as I'm shooting from the hip and likely left out some info. Good luck