Quote:
Originally Posted by dmatre
OK, now is the time to stop, think, and work in a logical manner.
You don't say how you measured the resistance of the sub, via the cables or directly at the terminals - but it's likely that a poorly soldered connection is leading to the higher resistance measured. Given the appearance of some of the soldered connections in your photos, and the cable connections in general, I would do the following:
1) completely remove all components and user-installed wiring, desolder all connections, remove as much solder as possible, and start over.
2) get the proper connectors for the speakers, rather than twisting wire and soldering.
3) determine the correct lead lengths, pre-cut the leads, crimp the proper connectors on, and wire up the speakers/crossovers while in the trunk of the car (making it easier to swap left/right, front/back, subs/mids/tweets if you find anything not sounding correct)
4) test everything in the trunk - connected directly to the amplifier outputs. Only when everything checks out with no hiss and no weird tweeter harshness, would I reinstall the speakers
I'm not an audio-guru, but my background is in industrial automation/process control. When I come to a customer who made their own installation and is having similar problems, normally the first thing that I do is uninstall and reinstall all cabling. It's much easier and faster for me to disconnect/reterminate everything (1-2 days) rather than trying to troubleshoot problems caused by improper wiring (can take weeks).
It may not be the quick-fix you want to hear about, but it's likely the quickest way to get your car sounding the way that you want it to.
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I will give that a try too. I admit the solder was half fast but I'd be surprised if it is the problem. I took the measurement at both the connection tip and wiring end, result was the same.