Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL
Yes that's correct along with the calipers.
Basically you start by washing & scrubbing all brake components with a good scrub/detergent mix to remove the brake dust grime & then rinse and then dry (I use my petrol blower to dry after cleaning) then give the rotor hubs a light run with 1200 grit paper (dont worry about sanding the calipers as they have a rough porous surface finish due to them being cast) then clean with a wax grease remover, and if you want you can mask the mounting hubs.
Then mask off the inner wheel arches with newspaper and secure with masking tape (to prevent having your wheel lining covered with overspray) and you're ready for painting.
I use duplicolour caliper paint (the hi temp spray is suitable also- which i believe SCA currentley have a special on for the caliper paint) but just be careful the nozzles are extremely sensitive and awkward to use but once familiar they are an excellent nozzle. I recommend trial painting on something prior to prevent runs or severe overspray.
When painting use a series of thin even coats in a sweeping motion (and at least 12 inches away to prevent runs) rather then one or two thick coats (wait 10 mins between each coat or I use a AEG heat gun in between coats to speed up the process - or just steal your missus blow dryer) as the viscosity of this paint is extremely thin and runs easily if heavy handed.
Then once your done, I sand the inner hub of the wheel and the mounting face apply a thin layer of grease to the mounting face, the mounting hub on the rotor and also a very fine layer of grease to each bolt after cleaning.
I spray in controlled strokes and basically there was minimal overspray onto the actual rotor face. You can either dab the overspray off with a rag doused in thinners and then as you stated just let the remaining overpsray be removed during the normal braking process (obviously you don't want the entire rotor face to be covered in paint 2mm thick and expect that to be removed a sit may glaze the pads.
When rims are mounted and torqued up quite often crevice corrosion occurs due to the dissimilar materials (alloy wheel onto a iron hub) which in itself is no big deal but what occurs is when trying to get the wheels off the hub they are jammed on. For a backyard mechanic this is no big deal you tap the inside tyrewall with a soft face mallet, but if you're getting your tyres changed at your local bob jane/ kmart they will just wallop the christ out of it, or lever it off with a bar and potentially damaging your rims. (the same goes for the bolts, if you have ever had a stripped wheel nut or broken stud you know what a PITA it is to replace when a bit of simple routine preventative maintenance could have prevented it from occuring)
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Thanks Shane. I plan on painting my BMWP rotors with a clearcoat on the hubs and maybe even the edges near the vanes so they don't rust up.
I always find it a bitch to remove my wheels after they've been on for a while due to the corrosion. What's even worse is that I have non hub-centric wheels and so the aluminium hub centric rings are pretty much now welded on... It's impossible to hammer, kick, whatever the wheels off. What I did was actually loosen all of the nuts and just leave a couple on. Then I just jack the car up slightly and lower it down slowly using a jack. The weight of the car and the weight shift is due to the tyre/suspension is enough to pop the wheel off the hub. I'm not sure how healthy this is for the lug bolts but from a visual inspection it doesn't seem to damage the threads or the bolt itself and they continue to work fine. I think I'm going to get Pete to cut the hub centric rings off when the car's in the shop and maybe I'll try run without hub centric rings or use plastic ones in the meantime if I notice vibrations. Just worried they'll melt when I'm at the track.
But yeah, I'll have to do the sanding/greasing thing to the hub/mounting face the next time I remove the wheels. Brake component grease is ok?