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      10-27-2012, 05:50 PM   #6
fastloop
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Drives: E92 335i M Sport
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: UK

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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil200tdi View Post
Indeed! Wish Darren woods had done this!

Yep still getting over boost codes. But have a vacuum gauge and am losing vacuum, one canister also needs replacing.

I can see that the rear turbo hose has had it - and where the problem is. I'm going to cut the old hose as far back as possible and join with a new hose. Hopefully this will resolve the issue, otherwise I'll replace the solenoids (not a big deal).
Overboost codes, so that would be 30FE. Mine started to act up throwing this code on light throttle under load when cold. No issues when pushing it or when it's warm. This started to happen after a trackday at Bedford Autodrome. In addition my wastegates have started to rattle again, so not overly impressed about the durability of the actuators/turbos. If it gets worse I might use the excuse to get some RBs.

Where did you measure vacuum from and how quick are you loosing vacuum? I just replaced both of my pressure converters today to fix the 30FE error. There seems to be different views on whether this will help or not, but its something that I have wanted to try for a while. Boost control seems to be better and I have not seen any 30FE errors yet (fingers crossed).

I had a look at the vacuum from the canisters and both seemed to hold vacuum for a good couple of minutes with only minimal bleed off.

Inserting the vacuum gauge between the canisters and the pressure converters I measured 25-26 inHg with the engine idling. I then stopped the engine and measured the bleed off every minute.
1min - 23 inHg
2min - 21 inHg
3min - 19.5 inHg
4min - 17.5 inHg
5min - 16 inHg

I did the test on both canisters and the bleed off was pretty similar.

I also used a MityVac to have a look at the WG actuator arm in operation and it seemed to move freely, but the vacuum gauge wasn't very accurate and I couldn't confirm if it closed properly at 5.91 inHg. It was there and about, but I really need to do this with the downpipes off so it's possible to check if the penny flapper can rotate or not. That should also give access to adjust the rear actuator arm if necessary. If only I had a garage with a 2 post lift I could give it a go, but the weather is too crap now to even attempt this on axle stands.

Have you replaced the vacuum lines going across the engine yet? These are known to become frail on higher milage cars?
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