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George,
It's been said numerous times in some 29 pages of this thread, but, I think it's great that you've made yourself available on the forum to answer questions and offer your assistance. That being said..
I've ordered a bunch of goodies from you to get started this weekend. I have no prior experience with a buffing tool other than a 20 dollar special from Autozone. Better then using my hand...barely. I've got the flex, SIP, 106FF, FTG & FMJ coming. My first test vehicle is my fiance's Metallic Black 2006 Civic followed by my Black Sapphire Metallic 335. Both vehicles have swirl marks from previous improper washing/drying and a few clearcoat scratches which appear white to the eye but cannot feel them (most of them) by touch. Based off of everything I have gathered here, this is the order I am going to do this in. Recommendations/criticism etc. throw it at me. I want to make sure I do it right the first time.
- Proper Wash/Blow Dry
- Fine Clay
- 50/50 Iso Alcohol & Water mix wipe down
- tape off all exterior trim, lights etc.
- Flex / Orange Pad with SIP on the entire car (or should I just do the areas that need the attention of the Orange/SIP combo such as areas with CC scratches)
- Flex / White Pad with 106FF on the entire car.
- 50/50 Iso Alcohol & Water wipe down.
- Flex / White Pad with FTG (is there a cure time?)
- Flex / Blue Pad with FMJ (let cure 24 hours)
- Wipe down with some type of quick detailer for dust etc.
- Flex / Blue Pad with FMJ.
Note about washing - I live in an apartment so I have no water supply / hose. I use a coin-op car wash about a half mile down the street. That's the best I can do right now. I usually bucket wash early in the morning before the bucket nazi's arrive. In the future is it ok for me to maintain with CG's Waterless Carwash and a really plush Microfiber Towel? What are my limits to the amount of contaminates I can remove with the Waterless? ie dirty residue that dries down the sides of a car after driving in the rain.
Thanks in advance!
GP335i
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