Not sure if anyone else has done this yet, but I thought I'd share my experience here anyways.
Total cost: $5 (most of the supplies I had sitting around at home)
Metal piece was $2 - home depot
Drywall Anchor ~$1.75 - home depot
Rubber pads were $1 - dollar store
You may notice that some pictures already have some steps completed in advance (trial and error). The steps listed below are in proper order, regardless of what the pictures may communicate.
So here's how its done:
Materials:
- Scrap Metal Piece (this should come flat, not already bent as shown in the pictures)
- Butterfly Drywall Anchor
- Felt pads/ Rubber Pads
- Sandpaper (220 and 320 grit should be sufficient)
- Paint/ Plastidip (if you want to prevent rust)
- Double Sided Tape (3m automotive)
Step 1:
Sand the metal piece to prep for plastidip/ paint. Sand until the surface is clean and smooth, much like the matte blades of the scissors pictured below
Step 2:
Bend a dip slightly larger than the width of the tow hook opening into the metal piece, then drill a hole through the center of the dip:
*The pictures below show an unsanded piece. I would recommend sanding BEFORE bending it as it is much easier to sand across a flat surface
I couldn't find my drills so I just hammered a hole through the metal in a rush to get the plate on asap, hence the bulging edges.
Step 3:
Paint to prevent rust (thin coats)
You might as well paint the back of the license plate as well. This helps to hide the reflection on your bumper.
Step 4:
Stick two felt pads on to the angled sections of the metal piece (approximately 3 inches in length each). This will add a soft barrier between the bare metal piece and your bumper, you'll see what I mean later.
Step 5:
Put the ghetto rig together as pictured below:
The washer may not be necessary
Step 6:
Push the drywall anchor into the tow hook opening. Make sure it is grabbing to the back of the bumper in a
HORIZONTAL position so that it is holding on to the tabs on the left and right side of the opening that the tow hook cover would have been clinging on to.
While you tighten the assembly, the anchor will push in to the back left and right sides of the opening. The plate mount will press down on the same spots (however on the outside) preventing the bumper from stretching/ warping.
If the anchor is placed vertically (grabbing the top and bottom of the back side of the bumper), it will pull that section outwards. As there is no downwards pressure stopping the outward movement, it will slowly warp the bumper as you tighten the assembly.
Step 7:
Double-side tape the plate on, remember to test fit first. If you want the plate to be further to one side, you may need to saw the metal piece down on one side to prevent it from sticking out past the side of the license plate (as I had to do).
This is the position before sawing down the metal piece:
