|
Ok. I am sorry but I cannot recommend this DIY.
While avoiding dropping the subframes sounds terrific at first, it just leads to a sloppy, tedious and painful job. The DIY doesn't claim its a simple job, but now I believe there is no way to make a proper job with this technique, which matters more.
Some bolts are very difficult to reach. On the driver side, the 2 bolts under the engine mount are heroic to remove. It took me probably almost as much time as to remove the subframe to remove these 2 buggers.
The direction rack prevents the removal of the pan bolt immediately over it on the pass-side. There is not enough clearance. I had to unbolt the direction rack to move it around. These bolts are 1 use only, well, I didn't expected that, so they are 2 uses until next week (56NM+90deg).
There is an issue with the transmission oil cooler line. It is in the way. Not having prepared for that, I couldn't remove it (I have no trans fluid at home).
When everything is open, there is simply not enough room to make a proper job.
* Removing the original gasket is a nightmare. It is stuck everywhere, and the same areas where bolt removal is problematic, it is very difficult to access to work the gasket out.
* once removed, it is impossible to clean properly the mating surfaces. Too many areas are out of reach.
Then comes reassembly. A good 50% of the bolts cannot be (in any way) torqued according to spec (25NM +90deg). Most wont fit a torque wrench, many do not even provide enough clearance for a good "feel" wrenching. I torqued snug, some very hard to get bolts are less snug than others (the wiggle in the wobble extensions doesn't permit putting force on the bolts).
Overall, I was very unhappy with how it went. I would actually be surprised if the oil leak is not worse than it was before, after all these efforts. I recommend you do the job properly, dropping the subframe to have enough room to work and remove the pan.
|