Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWLove86
the first one is from a roll over vehicle if you look back on page 9 you can see what the car looked like after the accident. I know that own is missing the intake manifold guy tried to sell it on this forum, when you google search the vin. I just want to know do you think its a good idea to buy an engine involved in that kind of accident?
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Alright, I'm going to lay this out for you.
Probably the best advice you'll get.
You don't seem to be mechanically inclined much and you do seem to have a bit of cash at your disposal. First line of offense here, is to sit down and figure out what happened. Basically ask yourself, what you purchased, find all the paperwork from the dealership, voicemails, try to remember coversations you've had with the delaer, etc. Then seek the help of a lawyer, find a free one that deals with automotive cases, liability etc. There are millions of lawyers that have won class action suits vs. automotive companies. Have them listen to your story and then see what they say. See more than one lawyer. If it pans out that you do have a case -- figure out what the cost will be vs what you want the outcome to be. Find out if the lawyer will charge you upfront or after, or not at all if the case gets shot down.
You have cash now, so fix the car because inevitably you need the vehicle whether or not you want to sell it after its fixed is your decision, whether or not your court case (if you are eligible for one) pays for the vehicle now or down the road is a gamble but it would be one I would take. Whatever you do, keep the old engine indoors at your place or home.
Moving onto the engine issue; you dont need to know about any type of mechanical wahoo to buy and have a shop install your engine. You dont even have to know much about installing an engine if you've never done it before. There's something called the internet and manuals -- how do you think the professionals get it done when they're in a bind when installing? (I'm not directing this question at you but at the people here who are telling you do do it the 'right' way).
Don't buy an engine that has been in a really bad front end or side impact accident. Don't buy a rollover, don't buy flood damaged. Before you buy the engine from anywhere - get the vin # and run the vin and dont' just rely on google. You dont need every part from the engine -- a block and head is pretty much all you need but the more complete you get one is better. Look local for an engine unless you can get a written statement of warranty for x amount of days from the seller if its out of state. That way if an engine shows up with a cracked block -- you have recourse. Buying it locally is better for three reasons, which are 1. you can inspect and crank it by hand and 2. you can bid down the price if you're paying cash. 3. the salvage/wrecker usually knows a good installer on a first hand basis.
http://www.bimmershops.com/bmwshops/illinois/
I just checked car-part and there are 5 engines in your are for around the prices you posted on ebay.
Once you have the engine picked out -- before you buy it, head to a couple of independent bmw shops in your area, ask them for a quote for an engine installation...basically you're looking for a labor rate & parts rate to install a refurbished engine into your car. Find out the labor rate for the shop -- if they can't tell you what their rate it is then move onto another shop. Chicago should have a website where they post the current rates for shops.
Labor rates don't differ if you bring your own parts vs. them buying a part. Generally they will tell you that they wont take your parts and install them because of the liability on the part (they dont know the history on it, for example) and because they will markup their parts cost to make more of their cut. It's simple business semantics.
Once you have your quotes in hand find out a bit about the shops and choose the two shops you're going to stick with. Go in, and ask to speak with the shop manager or owner and shoot for a price under their quoted price. They can either match it or tell you no, but for just even $100 less on a quote its much better to ask than to just pony up the dough.
Also make sure the shop gives you in writing some form of workmanship and parts warranty -- i.e. 90 days, etc.
On a sidenote -- If you have insurance on the vehicle you might want to contact your insurance and see if you can make a comprehensive claim on it -- pay your deductible and have them replace the engine. Some companies will.