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Originally Posted by rtjones

Is the idea that the clay will work better on a surface where all sealant/wax has first been removed? If you believe so, I'll use the appropriate solution Citrius Wash & Gloss only before claying. I'm happy w/ Super Slick & Suds for routine washing.

Taking things to extremes yes, the idea is to start with no protection (and no contamination before polishing) to get the absolute most out of any step of the process. How big of an impact does this have? Maybe not a significant one on a daily driver, but on a concours level detail, every little bit helps.

Citrus Wash & Gloss is a great product because normally, I'd give the car a wipe down with some Isopropyl Alcohol, but now I just wash with a stronger ratio of CW&G (2oz / gallon).

Originally Posted by SolidSnake2634

Hey george, after i'm done polishing the car, all i have to do is wipe down the car with a clean MF towel and then i can get on with waxing right?

Some polishes leave behind oils on the surface. To ensure they are removed, you could give your car a wipe down with some Isopropyl Alcohol or some Menzerna Top Inspection. This will ensure your sealant or wax has the optimal surface to bond to and it helps remove any excess polish residue from trim pieces. Can you go from polishing to waxing and still achieve great results, yes.

Originally Posted by ChuckD

Hey everybody,

It IS fixed... I just ordered some stuff today and there was an option for APO shipping. Thanks for hooking up us guys overseas! Hopefully it gets here fast.

Chuck D

Yes, we updated this as soon as we heard about it. Keep us posted with how things turn out for you! Thanks again for your support.

Originally Posted by UncleWede

So, if I spent about 1.5 hours with glaze on a scratched section, then SIP/orange and 106ff/white and did just the driver's rear quarter and the trunk, did I spend enough time?

I did the hand in the bag on the trunk lid and couldn't feel ANYTHING

I also wandered around and hit just the scratches. Rosalinda is off the hook for those 4 inches on the passenger door, and I'm off the hook for those 6+ inches on the hood from the first time I tried to Z2 it Thanks George!

Glad to see things worked out as planned! Keep up the great work.

Originally Posted by rtjones

George, if I plan on using 2 types of polish on my vehcile, i.e., orange/Menzerna SIP followed by white/Menzerna 106FF OR another option would be white/106FF followed by blue/PO85RD, what process do you suggest using to remove the polish in the first step, to prepare for the polish in the second step?

For example, I've finished w/ white/106FF, and have dried polish all over my vehicle. How do you recommend removing that before I begin polishing w/ the blue/85RD?

Thanks.

Depends on how confident you are that there is no hazing or micro-marring left behind. To be 100% confident in your work, you should wipe down each step with some Isopropyl Alcohol or some Menzerna Top Inspection to help remove any oils left behind from polishes. Inspect your work afterwards in the proper lighting, then proceed to the 85RD. In most cases, PO106FF/FA will not haze or micro-mar using a white pad, but you want to make sure it was capable of removing heavier marring if you used a more aggressive combination before hand.

Originally Posted by UncleWede

Should use a MF after each section (2x2?) you do. You can't see if you might need to do it again unless you wipe off the residue.

Sorry for some slow replies guys. Let me know if you have any other questions.

George