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Break-in was more relevent years ago; a lot with the cylinders mentioned above; the cylinders were (and still are) honed; some wear occured and help seat the rings with the cylinder much like 2 pieces rubbed together eventually produce a perfect fit. Not too long ago, you couldn't use synthetic oil in some engines for the first several thousand miles or the rings wouldn't seat properly and you'd end up with horrible oil consumption as the synthetic was TOO slippery to provide the necessary initial wear.
Today with synthetic oils, I've seen engines with well in excess of 100,000 miles with the factory cross-hatch cylinder hone still clearly evident.
Manufactures set break-in proceedures to a) get the most out of your car and b) (most importantly) avoid repairs for well past the warranty period. However IMHO, they tend to be overly conservative and designed for worst-case. I take it relatively easy for the first few hundred miles; change the oil to get rid of manufacturing left overs and assembly lube, then beat the hell out of it. You WILL see power increases as the parts fit together better and internal drag is reduced. Usually a lot at first, then less often then it doesn't happen at all after 30,000 miles (who knows with the 335 tho).
New brake pads should be bedded on a fresh rotor; some pads embed compounds into the rotor face which helps with friction and some pads can release gas which makes them less effective if not bedded properly, but not sure if that applys to factory pads.. regardless they'll still work fine, just not PERFECTLY fine if you're anal about those things, and that applies mostly to after market pads.
Warming up your car- not so good. Taking it a little easy when it's stone cold, much better. More clearence when the engine is cold and some tend to run richer before they warm up; bad for oil contamination as it tends to soak with gasoline a lot faster. Very bad idea to pull out of the driveway on a cold morning and run it straight to redline; fluids don't flow as well, parts aren't as well fitted as when worm and stress on the engine is already higher than normal.
Cars are designed to drop the clutch at 5,000 RPM on there way out the showroom door; the downside is that at 50,000 miles or above, you could find yourself with a slightly noiser drivetrain, worse than normal oil consumption and other problems because you didn't let the new car go through a few thermal cycles to get everything aquanted..
just my .02c
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