[Pavlo]

Originally Posted by Nathan_h

I haven't read too much about the "mid bass problem" but it seems to mostly impact people that ADD an extra trunk mounted sub.

That is an incorrect statement, and lazy one at that. If you “haven’t read much about this” then FIRST read more about this and how MID-bass and SUB-bass interact with each other (especially in the SWS-8) as this is a well known industry fact about playing SUB-woofers above 100Hz, then make a statement about it… Issues can be an unwanted standing bass waves, identification of the woofers position, as in not an “everywhere” sound. As well as “flabby” or “boomy” bass. Or sometimes know as a "bass bump" with the main drivers and woofers

And what happens if I’m not one of the “MOSTLY” and one of the “FEW”, who has this issue. We have some people on here that come with very rare problems that are only unique to them and haven’t heard of that issue before, and even veterans like Technic and VP struggle to diagnose the issue. It actually remind me of a guy who had annoying hiss/static coming from his speakers, loads of people tried to help and Technic too. Everything from amp sensitivity setting, to changing RACs. But they don’t go, yee “Most of us don’t have that issue”…. Very, very lazy statement.. Sorry. (Plus, mine is very common issue with the SWS-8)

Here to help you get started is link on the issue of playing them above 100Hz (MID-bass territory) http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=587762

SWS-8 is predominantly a SUB-woofer, which means they naturally want to play around 80Hz and lower. The MID-bass is around 100 Hz to 200 Hz and mid-RANGE (vocals etc…) is around 400Hz to 3,000Hz

If you make a SUB-woofer play from 20Hz to 200HZ (especially the shallow-mount earthquakes) you are introducing a whole load of problems. As you are making it do the work of a mid-bass driver and a sub-woofer. This is a VERY COMMON issue with people complaining about their mid-bass with the SWS-8. AS a matter of fact the issue is more common for people w/o a DSP of some kind, as the MS-8 will fix these issue with sub in the trunk or without. As people have stated it’s to do with calibration, EQing and using the correct connections. So the problem is fixable and has been done many times by Kai, VP, Techinic etc…) because they have the tools (MS-8), But not many have fixed the issue w/o a DSP/EQ processor of somekind. (As they don't have the right 'tools' like MS-8 and need multipale 'tools' like cleansweep etc... Which makes it abit tricker to install and tune for the average joe.)

Or people have been putting in 6.5” or 8” into the door panel for the proper mid-bass and mid-range like in this clip. -http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gqing3p2psI

Some have been playing with the idea of 5.25” in the door and play them down to 70-80Hz but you get into off-axis issues…

I don’t want to go into this explaining in detail, since it’s been posted hundreds of times and is a well known issue with sub-woofers playing mid-bass (especially cheap to mid-priced ones). So just search it…

Using the MS-8 this issue can be addressed, but this is with heavy EQing with dB/Oct setting. This has once again been discussed many times on this thread and countless others. VP has multiple times been able to produce a great sounding SWS-8 between 150Hz and 200Hz but only heavy EQing with dB/Oct setting. (Hope I’m not misquoting you VP)

But as both Technic and VP where discussing in this link http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=351728. The Kicker is a MID-bass driver with little SUB-bass. The opposite to the SWS-8. And this was just once again covered Tai about the different ways of SUB/MID-bass set-up possibilities and their benefits as well as shortcomings

Originally Posted by taibanl

Step 1)
Determine plan of attack for Bass
a) Midbass only: HP the under seats @ 60hz. Note this is 10w LESS than OEM amp power but at least with the active crossover point it should maybe be about as efficient.
b) Midbass + power: Same as above but add power to under seats.
c) Subbass/Midbass compromise: add power (cheap 2ch) AND replace under seats with SWS. Use MS-8 to "Tune" the SWS to provide decent Midbass also, since they are predominantly a sub bass driver.
d) Subbass + Midbass: JL XD400/4 ($300) or XD600/6 ($350) and a MusicarNW Box ($500) - Keep OEM Midbass
e) "d" plus upgraded midbass, etc.

Originally Posted by Nathan_h

If you are using an MS-8 (I assume so, since you are posting in the MS-8 thread :-)) I don't really understand your settings.

Once again an incorrect statement, you do not need to have a MS-8 to post on an MS-8 thread. This isn’t a gym membership system, of if you don’t have gym pass you can’t enter the gym. Anything that is relating to the MS-8(including advantages and disadvantages of it versus other DSPs out there), or the possibilities of MS-8 fixing issues you have or may have can be posted on here.

Don’t “Assume” anything, especially on a technical audio forum if you’re giving advice (well trying too). If you had read my post properly you would see I wrote “It is though running of that ugly base EQ curve”. How can it, if I had an MS-8 it wouldn’t have that curve that’s what the de-EQ on it does… silly. And “Until my H660 arrives it's coming from the US” why would I down grade from a MS-8 to a H660. Its going backwards, again lazy.

Originally Posted by Nathan_h

Those 8 inch drivers should probably be crossed over to the doors at 150hz or higher, and rolled off really low (like 20hz?).

If you run your SWS-8 at 150Hz-200Hz like VP has successfully on a (heavily EQed set-up) you need a higher dB/Oct slope. The H660 if fixed @12. Sooo… I’m going to write this as clear as possible… When my H660 arrives ( I DON’T HAVE A DSP ATM) I’m going to attempt to do with it what others have achieved successfully with running the SWS-8 as mid-bass driver with its natural SUB characteristics coming through in smaller doses, on the MS-8. But issues are as follows to avoid a “Gap” accruing not going to go into to this just find the post about this, they need to run @ 200Hz LPF @ FIXED 12dB/Oct which is an issue. And I WON’T have a graphic EQ to play around with, like the 31-band the MS-8 has. BUT… It does have a 512-band calibration EQ which fingers crossed, should make this issue pretty much inaudible. If NOT and the “MID-bass” is “STILL” an issue then I will need to replace it with an MS-8 and look at a true 3-way system like, 4” door, Kicker underseat, and VP sub as I already explained in previous post. Or just introduce a Kicker in the door panel and HPF @ 80Hz.