I'm pretty sure aging batteries hold a smaller charge and a drop in voltage will likely translate to less power in the lock mechanism and subsequent sticking.
I need a new battery too. Don't forget to have it properly registered once its replaced. This can be done by a dealership (some charge for 1/2hr. labor for the process) or by a local coder with avg. experience (see coding section).
As for coding the lock out, nothing I've tried has worked. I think that the updated steering columns still have an electrical connector going into the ELV board, but the board is different and just sends a signal to the CAS module as if the mechanism worked. I've had a few opportunities to see this first hand but never occurred to me that I should check.
Maybe I should just hook up a voltmeter into the 4 wires and see what they're transmitting. Maybe the signal can be replicated pretty easily and the lock mechanism just pulled.