Install & Fitment: I wasn’t able to get install photos as I liked. But I was looking at the install and everything went fabulous. It is really a direct bolt on exhaust. From connecting pipes to the x-pipe and throughout everything fit perfectly using the factory hangers and bolts. I was amazed at the fitment of the connecting pipes to the downpipes. Everything aligned perfectly. The clamps are really sturdy and heavy duty and I see no reason why welding is needed. The muffler cross brace also really does its job on preventing mufflers from moving around. Make sure you insert a 4.5mm metal BB or a 7/32” ball bearing (found at many hardware stores and bike shops) inside the vacuum line, failure to seal this line properly will lead to a vacuum leak resulting in a huge power decrease which I experience and is shown in the dynos below. The tip fitment in the bumper valence is perfect. The stock exhaust has 80mm tips and these Supersprint ones are 90mm which are, in my opinion, perfect; they are not oversized and sit perfectly in the provided valance with a good remainder of space left. They are both very even in measurements from the sides, top, and exposure. The tips do not “droop” down to the floor nor do they touch any part of the valence. The muffler tips are very secure with the hangers, clamps, and muffler brace. Install was seriously a breeze and took one and a half hours and should take no longer then two.
Weight Savings: The stock exhaust weighed in at approximately 76lbs. The full Supersprint exhaust including clamps, brace, screws, etc came to be 58lbs. That is a difference of 18lbs from stock.
Sound: The sound of the exhaust is incredible. When I say there is no drone, I really mean no drone, nada, whatsoever. The exhaust in my opinion is perfectly pitched. Not too loud and not too quiet. The sound is more aggressive and louder then stock but still maintains a tamed volume inside the cabin to have a conversation without shouting. As the exhaust being broken in, you can noticeably hear the difference and the sound only gets better. If you have a coupe and experience rattling in the back seat after exhaust installation, it is normal and is caused by the extra DB (sound) of the exhaust. The exact location of the rattling comes from the storing compartment in the back seat. There is a solution to fixing this which is to insert two tennis balls into the compartment, one ball in the back and another at the front of the compartment. The two tennis balls fit very “snug” in the compartment and the tray closes with no problem. Just give the balls a push down and close the tray accordingly. If this doesn't work, take a microfiber cloth neatly fold it and lay it in the compartment with a tennis ball on top and close the cover. The sound of the engine is louder too and you can really hear the turbos spool up not to mention they spool up noticeably faster.
Videos: The video clips were produced with a Sony Cybershot digital camera. The 0-60mph runs were taken around 3AM because it is the only time where I can stop in the middle of the highway. I couldn’t really push the car as I hoped as I was already sliding (left & right) under the rainy conditions even with traction on. All video clips were taken with car at proper operating temperatures, 210-220 degrees.
Cruise- Windows Down 0-60:
Cruise- Windows Up 0-60:
Windows Down Rev:
Windows Up Rev:
WOT- Windows Down 0-60:
WOT-Windows Up 0-60:
Drive By- Cruise:
Drive By- Downshift & Roll:
Drive By- WOT:
Outside Rev:
Extra Videos:
155mph Limit Attempt #1:
155mph Limit Attempt #2:
Dyno: The Dynojet dynos below shows my highest stock number compared to the highest number with exhaust. Included is another dyno run of highest number of the exhaust when the vacuum line wasn’t sealed properly. Notice the huge drop in TQ. The exhaust dyno was done after a 500 mile break in of exhaust. The average difference on both HP and TQ between other dyno runs was 2-3 max as all dynos showed consistent numbers. The dynos were all done with the car’s oil temp being in optimal operating temperatures, 220-250 degrees max. Although not necessary to all, if you feel your car lost power, throttle response, or just doesn’t feel normal, reset your ECU by removing the negative terminal of your battery (black cable) in the trunk compartment for 15 minutes. This allows your ECU to go on the default aggressive map from factory and relearn and adapt to the new exhaust. You can noticeably feel a difference in power, throttle, and feel after doing so.