Quote:
Originally Posted by myE91
Have read the whole story, and being a new ( used ) 2010 owner, makes me sick to how a perfectly good car can become a nightmare over night ( pretty much )..... Sorry to hear ( read ) all of that .
I checked my I drive ( oil level thing ) and I still have the same thing on my front gages ???? So I'm pretty sure that you should have it as well.
Someone did not do the programming right orrrrr.... there is a glitch in the programming and someone just missed when programming new software ( with the recall )
I could be wrong about all of this..... my wife has proven that to me time and time again.
Good luck !
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Thank you for your empathy, I actually have news...
After spending all day between the indy shop and the dealer I got the indy owner to replace the pump...upon replacing it the car didnt show any faults and it now seems to work fine.
In the words of the BMW tech, the pump problem (not working) was triggering other stuff as the car gets its feedback in a loop so one problem could trigger other (secondary).
Anyways, I drove the car today for about 15 miles and the oil temps were on the 240F steady. I was actually very afraid as both times I got the engine to overheat it was (if I remember correctly) at about 250F which is in the middle of the gauge. Can anyone confirm this? What temps would the car go into limp mode?
I also had the indy shop replace the thermostat...might as well do everything in one go, right?
Funny though, after replacing the pump I now see the oil condition in the dash (the one reading INACTIVE before and that made me think something was wrong at the beginning). Well, it is now reading correctly and everything seems to be fine.
Oh one more thing...I think the indy shop is good but I dont know maybe lazyness? I asked the guys if there was a way to test the pump without turning on the car and they said no (indy mechanic and owner) but by reading these forums I know that if you energize the electronics by pushing the ignition button but not depressing the brake pedal and you push the accelerator for about 25 secs, the coolant pump will cycle for 12mins or so...I mean I know that, its either they are lazy and didnt want to waste coolant (by purging) or they just didnt know...
As far as I remember the process went like this: Drain coolant from misc hoses..Take pump and t-stat out, put new ones in. Plug everything. Refill will coolant, (he said he bled the air using the screw on the reservoir) and that is it. He never forced the pump on by using the procedure I explained above and I have read that it is part of the process when you change coolant on this cars...right?
What do you guys think?
Now, I only need to deal with the sport mode not engaging...oh well
k.