Major General 
Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Holly, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonwhit97
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonwhit97
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonwhit97
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonwhit97
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonwhit97
Quote:
Originally Posted by rpa440
Very Good !
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Not to start a new thread, however I am replacing my turbos soon to the best twins available (currently mmp 1000 and Vargas gc 2.0 with high flow). I have an 2009 e92 335 x drive m sport with 180000 on the clock Currently I plan on installing;
Turbos (Vargas Gc 2.0)
Catless down pipes (vrsf)
Intake with inlets (Turner hot side intake kit)
Oil pan gasket
Vargas silicon coolant lines.
I do not plan to increase hp for a a few months, mainly just doing prep. Is there any other parts people would recommend replacing/ upgrading while the subframe is dromed such as engine mounts or bushing that are much easier to get to while under the car? |
Did you buy the turbos yet? Why do you say Vargus GC 2.0 or MMP 1000 are the best twins available?
Do you have an upgraded FMIC?
Engine & trans mounts are advised
New O2 sensors if they have 100k or more on them.
You will need an upgraded LPFP if you pan on running stage 2 turbos, in order to keep up with fuel demand.
I'd also recommend VRSF 2" outlets.
Personally, I think the silicone coolant lines are a waste of $$$ rust you could put elsewhere into upgrades. |
Did you buy the turbos yet? Why do you say Vargus GC 2.0 or MMP 1000 are the best twins available?
Do you have an upgraded FMIC?
Engine & trans mounts are advised
New O2 sensors if they have 100k or more on them.
You will need an upgraded LPFP if you pan on running stage 2 turbos, in order to keep up with fuel demand.
I'd also recommend VRSF 2" outlets.
Personally, I think the silicone coolant lines are a waste of $$$ rust you could put elsewhere into upgrades. |
I don't trust my lines atm I think they have a short time remaining.
With the intercooler, I meant to note that however slipped my mind. Should I do that at once or wait, seeing that I'm not planing on tuning an aggressive map anytime soon. I want to get a 7.5 however I think that would be way to big when I'm still running a stock map.
I just replaced my post cat o2s and I agree with doing the pre cat sensors.
Do I need a lpfp with turbos, I was thinking I could get away with up to 400hp with the lpfp. I plan to change it but the more I add, the longer the project waits. And I had not decided on the outlets, however yes I will be doing those with the turbos.
Regarding the turbos, I was looking at pure ALOT, however they advertise 700 topping out the turbo, same with rn. The end goal is a 600 hp reliable daily with a remap to 80 or so, no I plan on a lot to get there, just see the rbs and pure not reliably holding this numbers out the block. (I plan on doing a closed desk eventually). But if you have other experience or knowledge, my ears are wide open.
Baslicly the end goal is big poer, just doing maintiance and I don't mind "wasting" money on performance I won't see till later if it's easier to do now with out major performance downsides prior to tuning |
You can save some $$ by just replacing the radiator hoses with OEM. I have 174,000 miles on my N54 & 90% of my hoses are original from 2007.
I did replace 90% of the o-rings 2 months ago when I replaced the original radiator!
As far as turbos, I'd get RB stage 2 plus. For the money, you can't lose. His turbos have almost a 0% failure rate. They are also under rated. Last, if you pay him by check or cash, he will knock off $300.00. No other company will that! RB was one of the original guys to start modding turbos on the N54 platform. There's no substitute for experience!
The other two brands of turbos you mentioned have higher failure rates.... FYI..
You will need 2" inlets & outlets. VRSF makes both.
If you don't have a catch can, you should get one & clean your intake valves.
If you upgrade the turbos, you will need at least a Walboro 450 stage 2 LPFP. You can make your own for under $150.00, if you follow the DIY's etc. once you get past 525hp, you'll probably need to upgrade to a stage 3 pump.
I don't think a 7.5" FMIC is going to be overkill for a stock tune. You'll just have really, really cool air going to the turbos until you upgrade to MHD 2+. I'd use a Wedge Tune to get beyond 500 HP & up to 600hp.
To get to 600hp, you'll probably need:
2 steps colder plugs @ .018 gap
Stage 3 fuel pump
Upgraded coils
MSD081 DME (more reliable at 600hp)
Index 12 injectors
New or relatively new gaskets coupled with Ultra Black, on all the major weak points such as Oil Pan, RMS, VC, Front Crank Seal,
New transmission solenoids & megatronic sleeves (you should probably do that if you are over 150,000 miles) |
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonwhit97
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonwhit97
Quote:
Originally Posted by rpa440
Very Good !
|
Not to start a new thread, however I am replacing my turbos soon to the best twins available (currently mmp 1000 and Vargas gc 2.0 with high flow). I have an 2009 e92 335 x drive m sport with 180000 on the clock Currently I plan on installing;
Turbos (Vargas Gc 2.0)
Catless down pipes (vrsf)
Intake with inlets (Turner hot side intake kit)
Oil pan gasket
Vargas silicon coolant lines.
I do not plan to increase hp for a a few months, mainly just doing prep. Is there any other parts people would recommend replacing/ upgrading while the subframe is dromed such as engine mounts or bushing that are much easier to get to while under the car? |
Did you buy the turbos yet? Why do you say Vargus GC 2.0 or MMP 1000 are the best twins available?
Do you have an upgraded FMIC?
Engine & trans mounts are advised
New O2 sensors if they have 100k or more on them.
You will need an upgraded LPFP if you pan on running stage 2 turbos, in order to keep up with fuel demand.
I'd also recommend VRSF 2" outlets.
Personally, I think the silicone coolant lines are a waste of $$$ rust you could put elsewhere into upgrades. |
Did you buy the turbos yet? Why do you say Vargus GC 2.0 or MMP 1000 are the best twins available?
Do you have an upgraded FMIC?
Engine & trans mounts are advised
New O2 sensors if they have 100k or more on them.
You will need an upgraded LPFP if you pan on running stage 2 turbos, in order to keep up with fuel demand.
I'd also recommend VRSF 2" outlets.
Personally, I think the silicone coolant lines are a waste of $$$ rust you could put elsewhere into upgrades. |
I don't trust my lines atm I think they have a short time remaining.
With the intercooler, I meant to note that however slipped my mind. Should I do that at once or wait, seeing that I'm not planing on tuning an aggressive map anytime soon. I want to get a 7.5 however I think that would be way to big when I'm still running a stock map.
I just replaced my post cat o2s and I agree with doing the pre cat sensors.
Do I need a lpfp with turbos, I was thinking I could get away with up to 400hp with the lpfp. I plan to change it but the more I add, the longer the project waits. And I had not decided on the outlets, however yes I will be doing those with the turbos.
Regarding the turbos, I was looking at pure ALOT, however they advertise 700 topping out the turbo, same with rn. The end goal is a 600 hp reliable daily with a remap to 80 or so, no I plan on a lot to get there, just see the rbs and pure not reliably holding this numbers out the block. (I plan on doing a closed desk eventually). But if you have other experience or knowledge, my ears are wide open.
Baslicly the end goal is big poer, just doing maintiance and I don't mind "wasting" money on performance I won't see till later if it's easier to do now with out major performance downsides prior to tuning |
You can save some $$ by just replacing the radiator hoses with OEM. I have 174,000 miles on my N54 & 90% of my hoses are original from 2007.
I did replace 90% of the o-rings 2 months ago when I replaced the original radiator!
As far as turbos, I'd get RB stage 2 plus. For the money, you can't lose. His turbos have almost a 0% failure rate. They are also under rated. Last, if you pay him by check or cash, he will knock off $300.00. No other company will that! RB was one of the original guys to start modding turbos on the N54 platform. There's no substitute for experience!
The other two brands of turbos you mentioned have higher failure rates.... FYI..
You will need 2" inlets & outlets. VRSF makes both.
If you don't have a catch can, you should get one & clean your intake valves.
If you upgrade the turbos, you will need at least a Walboro 450 stage 2 LPFP. You can make your own for under $150.00, if you follow the DIY's etc. once you get past 525hp, you'll probably need to upgrade to a stage 3 pump.
I don't think a 7.5" FMIC is going to be overkill for a stock tune. You'll just have really, really cool air going to the turbos until you upgrade to MHD 2+. I'd use a Wedge Tune to get beyond 500 HP & up to 600hp.
To get to 600hp, you'll probably need:
2 steps colder plugs @ .018 gap
Stage 3 fuel pump
Upgraded coils
MSD081 DME (more reliable at 600hp)
Index 12 injectors
New or relatively new gaskets coupled with Ultra Black, on all the major weak points such as Oil Pan, RMS, VC, Front Crank Seal,
New transmission solenoids & megatronic sleeves (you should probably do that if you are over 150,000 miles) |
Perfect, I've done a lot, already have index 12, done the crank seal and have a new csf radiator
Correct me if I'm ending but a mt doesn't have transmission solenoids correct. And my inlets will be the 2in provided with the hot side intake
Cal concert gasket was replaced already. Have upgraded coils. And your saying if I were to instal the turbos today and drive away I would need a lpfp or if u do any tune after I'll need them. Is there a preferred 7.5 intercooler I know they run into figment and cutting the bumper, just want the "right" one. Not trying to cheap out with this project. And I know I need to do the carbon cleaning, after turbos, one of the 1st mods will be. Doc race manifold and cleaning. |
W/ out a tune, I don't think you'd need a stage 2 pump on upgraded turbos, as long as your OEM pump is healthy. In other words, it sits at 72 psi at idol & never dips below 60psi at WOT.
I forgot to mention the HPFP. There's an upgrade for that, which you will need if you plan on hitting 600hp w/ out any hiccups |
Additionally, someone said pures are reliable, however cost to much, I makes out the mmp, gc 2.0, rb, and pure. They are all within $200 ecs per the pure which is 1000 abuse average, however includes a 600 core return charge. Making it 400 more. Is that the cost you spoke of or am I missing something. (That doesn't include the $300 under the table fee for rb) |
The RB stage 2 plus would be $1899.00 out the door, after the $300.00 core charge (or you send them in in advance - either way). This is assuming you pay him cash or check. He knocks off an additional $300.00.
If you email or call him, he gets back with you right away. He's very knowledgeable and doesn't try to sell you something you don't need.[/QUOTE]
The RB stage 2 plus would be $1899.00 out the door, after the $300.00 core charge (or you send them in in advance - either way). This is assuming you pay him cash or check. He knocks off an additional $300.00.
If you email or call him, he gets back with you right away. He's very knowledgeable and doesn't try to sell you something you don't need.[/QUOTE]
These are the turbos I would be getting from rb, and there is not a core charge since they are the td04 housing, where do you get 1800?[/QUOTE]
The RB stage 2 plus are T3. They are rated at 575hp. Keep in mind his turbos are very much under rated. You could easily run 600hp on those turbos.
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