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      01-21-2012, 08:12 PM   #23
Pavlo
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Drives: BMW 118D M-Sport Le Mans Blue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afsar View Post
Pav, perhaps you are talking about bi-amp configuration.Mine is not bi-amped
Our sound systems sound best as a 3-way set-up, and as discussed above when introducing the H660 to the equation you MUST bi-amped to achieve this. If you don’t bi-amp (as you’ve said you haven’t) the set-up will not correlate properly with the H660, as far as I’m aware for our type of set-up. Maybe Kaigoss69 could confirm. (I know you’re not running a 3-way set-up I will come to that in abit)

Quote:
Originally Posted by afsar View Post
My sws-8 are the only sub running off PDX-5 sub channel in mono mode (parallel wiring)
Running your SWS-8s as mono subs will once again present an issue with the H660. As your telling it you have a coax front setup and subs and not a 2/3 – way set-up which is how these cars sound best, hence the staging will be all over the place IMO. The underseats are originally set-up as parallel mid-bass (as a 2-way system) you have since downgraded it to a single coax set-up and turned the underseat to mono SUB-woofer IMO they shouldn’t be treated as SUB-woofer ONLY but a complimentary part of a balanced and harmonised 3-way set-up. Otherwise this could possibly cause you an issue with your sound staging, as 4” drivers even high-end ones, as has been numerously times noted are just not good enough for full range on their own even in some 2-way systems, you need at least 5.25”/6.5” 2-way ONLY front stage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by afsar View Post
if I LPF them 50Hz they are not going to used until bass gets too low. I normally keep them between 110-90Hz. As cdgatti said if I setup as per your discussion above I will have a no driver playing 59-200Hz which doesn't sound good option to go for?
You should NOT be setting your LPF for the SWS8s to 50Hz you WILL create a “Gap”, once again this been mentioned MANY times above. Set it to 200Hz and leave it otherwise you will create a “gap” between your underseats and mid/doors since the H660 won’t allow them to go lower then 200Hz. Which is why I said if you like to play your underseats or doors at particular freq this could be a problem (you say you set them around 110Hz) well if you set them at that on the H660 you WILL have a “Gap” and even if like you said your 343is go down as low as 80Hz it would be irrelevant cause once again the x-over is 200Hz HPF on the H660

Quote:
Originally Posted by afsar View Post
2nd question I had is why would I even tweak frequency range, isn't H660 suppose to automatically do it?
H660 give you options to tune your sound (limited options) of treble, mid and bass. So you can fine tune it abit or you can just leave it and hope for the best from the automatic set-up function.

Quote:
Originally Posted by afsar View Post
Today I hooked H660 to the PDX-5 and surprisingly I don't see any noticeable difference. Music stage has been dragged a bit to the back, more towards the center of car, just behind my head towards the center.

I only connected the front to the L2 and R2 input of H660 as they are full range. Only thing I couldn't do is to connect PDX5 both sub input as I didn't have rca splitter connector. H660 gives only one sub out rca female and PDX has two input despite giving one mono output. Not sure if this makes a difference.

Tomorrow I will try stereo output connecting all 4 lines in and see if that makes a difference, if not it goes on ebay.
I’m not surprised you didn’t see any difference! A couple of standard coax speaker with no mid support running at 200Hz+, (did you even turn the LPF on your amp to 200Hz from 110Hz to match the doors) I'm surprised it didn’t sound worse then when you started. That step-up is just all over the place! I would say to look into FIRST changing your set-up to 2-way HQ component door mid/tweet introduce/install a centre speaker and then run the underseats parallel to the front on separate channel for a proper 3-way HQ front stage set-up. Then SECOND install the H660 to de-eq, tune and calibrate your system. ATM what you’re doing is sitting in a freezing house with all the doors and windows open and one fan heater on, saying “its freezing in here!” Well first go and close all the windows and doors and then you can try and warm up yourself and the house.
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