I use Pagid Yellow RS-19s up front and Porterfield R4Es in the rear. The Pagids really bite down and are VERY consistent turn to turn given your tires can handle them.
S4to335 gave me good advice once. Don't change your pads until you start experiencing "pad fade." If you haven't changed to RBF600 or Super Blue (although the Blue stains your reservoir), I would do so. Here's a definition from Pagid's site to determine which fade you are experiencing:
Quote:
1.) pad fade
When the temperature at the interface between the pad and the disc exceeds the thermal capacity of the pad, the pad loses friction capability mainly due to out-gassing of binder (matrix) materials in the pad compound. The brake pedal remains firm and solid but the car will not stop no matter how hard you push on the pedal. The first indication is a distinctive smell, a signal to back off. Solutions: better cooling, higher mass brake discs size and vane configuration or higher heat range pad compound.
2.) fluid fade
Boiling brake fluid develops gas bubbles in the calipers. The brake pedal becomes soft and pedal travel increases (because gas is compressible). One can still stop the car by pumping the pedal but efficient modulation is gone. This is a gradual process with advanced warning. The damaged fluid must be completely replaced. Correcting the problem is improved cooling and / or may only require new or higher grade racing brake fluid. The importance of keeping fresh brake fluid in the system and regular bleeding (before every session) cannot be overstressed.
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Basically, hard pedal = pad fade, soft pedal = fluid fade. It's possible that with the wrong tires, you can out brake your tires.
For example, I made the stupid mistake of selling my track tires. Since I have to wait until July to get my track wheels, I decided to try a track day on my winter tires...with my Pagids. Really dumb idea, it took for ever to get used to backing off the brakes so that I wouldn't just slide.