Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY
$58 is cheap for me, not reinventing the wheel. But if you wish, a spring compressor threaded rod w/stout washers and EMT Conduit of max thickness will do the job.
Harold was gracious to allow more than 2 weeks for my rental. May have had something to do with my $2400 parts purchase, including bushings.
To be honest, I don't see why everyone says the job's difficult. Just drop the subframe 4" and go to it....pneumatic wrench makes it go much faster. Don't forget to lubricate the threaded rod! I used an old, forgotten bottle of 20/50 motor oil. Lube ingoing bushings too - they go in easy that way - silicone, please.  |
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianMN
I made my own tool out of steel tubing, the beefiest Grade 10 Rod/nuts, oiled everything, and the bushing was still so tight that it broke the 5 rods getting the first bushing out. I said screw it and took the whole subframe out and pressed them out and in.
The tool HPA has must be crazy strong; I"m curious to know how is stronger than the one I made.
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To either of you: I understand how to make the tool remove the bushing, but how does it press it in? Also, how much space is there on the other side of the bushing, 4in? (between subframe and bottom of car)
At this point, it sounds like HPA might not have the tool available in March when I need it, so I am definitely going to make my own now, so any help with the specs would be greatly appreciated.
I'm trying to understand the exact function of each part of the tool. (It should be straight forward, really). From my understanding, only parts 2 and 3 are required for the rear subframe bushings, plus the corresponding washers and rod?
