Quote:
Originally Posted by slopokdave
I drove my 07 335 last night out to eat. Go to leave and it won't start. No click. All accessories work.
At first I thought it was my key fob (with comfort access). It had been telling me the battery was low. I changed the battery out but still not working. Went and go my spare key w/o comfort access, same thing, not working.
I jumped the battery just in case but again everything works. I imagine its not the starter because I can't even get into accessory/ignition mode to put it in neutral.
1. I put key in. Car tells me key is in ignition. Radio comes on. odo/obc doesn't come on though
2. Push brake and start button, nothing happens and all accessories turn back off as if I wasn't even pushing the brake.
In the past 24hrs I've washed the car, including wiped down the engine bay; but it's ran fine the past day no trouble at all. I also hooked my Active meth kit back up (not injecting though), I had it disconnected for a bit because it was leaking. Only thing I reconnected was the pump turn on back by the battery and physically plug in the water line to the quick disconnect. Some water did spill out under the battery, but I soaked it up and vacuum it right away.
So it sounds electrical to me.... But I just don't know what unless something shorted? But doesn't make sense to me why it ran great for a day, all night, then poof just no crank, click, anything.
I am running JB4 and currently have the ECU disconnected to see if it will go to sleep/reset.
I feel like its still something with the key maybe too because it will tell me the key is either dead or faulty every 5-6 tries.
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I have an ’07 335i I and just started having the same problem. I was leaving the store, put the key in and pushed the start button … nothing. Lights and all accessories work; no clicking from the starter solenoid, and no DTCs. I was thinking the battery I just replaced was a bad one, but when I had it tested; it’s putting out 12.2 volts and 1000 CCAs. I did have the new battery registered at the dealership.
Next, I pulled out my Bentley service manual (121-14). Too bad the damn starter is under the intake manifold. With the “break point” being the starter, the book says to:
1. Check for battery voltage at the B+ terminal (top post) on the starter solenoid; no power, check the battery, cables, terminals, and ground connections. If you have 12V, go to step 2.
2. Check for battery voltage at terminal X6510 on the starter solenoid (just below the B+ terminal) with the ignition in the “start” position. If voltage is not present, check the wiring between the car access system (CAS) module and the starter terminal.
3. If you have power, it’s the starter; if not, it’s electrical probably related to the CAS module or the clutch/brake control module.
NOTE: If you have a manual, the clutch switch module sends a signal to the CAS and then power will flow to the starter. If you have an automatic, the signal comes from the brake pedal.
I’m thinking if it was the CAS or the clutch switch module I’d get a fault, or that little reminder light on the dash that reminds me to depress the clutch pedal. I suspect the starter has a dead spot, or there may be pitting on the contactor that is interrupting current flow. My problem is I can’t get the problem to duplicate when I have the car at home, and that makes it very hard to troubleshoot.