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Originally Posted by 335rocks
Idnan, did you also experience clutch judder on you HPF Stage 2? Marcel drove my car before deciding on the stage 1 option. Stage 2 is a bit on the heavy side, but I have gotten used to it now and I don't really notice it. My clutch judder is also becoming less and less. Initially it was pretty bad and difficult to drive. But with more miles on it and some track days it's starting to feel more bedded in. I currently got 12000 miles on it and the only issue recently is that it's started to make the occasional squeak when engaging. Hopefully it's not a sign of it being worn.
On the positive side I never had it slip or feel like it wouldn't hold, but I'm not sure I would buy it again. I would be interested to hear your experience if you go down the Spec stage 2+ route.
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I'm at about 1000miles and the judder is still quite bad and it is difficult to drive at the moment. I'm used to having a heavy clutch coming from the ACT Street that I had on there before. It's good to know that it should get better with a few more miles. I don't doubt that it will hold the power and I'm not a drag strip addict so I'm not so worried about welding it together. If I need a new clutch then I'm going for the Spec stage 3+ which was my initial choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux
Yeah, that's right. At the same time that I had the RB turbos installed, I also had the ClutchMasters FX300 put in. After bedding it in for around 1000 miles I did a trip to the 'Ring with it and it failed miserably, slippage in 4th to 6th gear.
I then had it replaced by the HPF Feramic stage 1, after having driven Lars' car with the stage 2. In the end I think though that the engagement between stage 1 and 2 is not that much different. It's noticeably stiffer than with the CM clutch, let alone the OEM one. The HPF works fine, no slippage at all, just the engagement is not very smooth and there's still quite a bit of judder depending on how I engage the clutch.
The issue I'm having now is not the clutch but rather the flywheel. When installing the CM FX300, a new flywheel was also installed. When installing the HPF clutch, the flywheel was replaced again as apparently the (second) original one already had lots of play in it.
In the end it's rather obvious that the original dual mass flywheel is not up to cope with the massive torque that my car (and idnan's) are putting out. That's at least in my opinion the reason why we get these vibrations from the drivetrain when going WOT, and why I'm now consistently getting misfires in the high rev range which are caused by the knock sensors that confuse the massive drivetrain vibrations with a knock event.
A temporary bypass will probably be to deactivate the knock detection (COBB can do that), but in the end it seems I'll have to go with a single mass flywheel. As the aluminium ones are quite noisy, I'm currently also leaning towards the Spec steel flywheel. Ideally however I'd like to combine that with my current HPF clutch as I don't want to buy still another clutch (I'd really like to spend my hard-earned money on other things than clutches...).
So if you're doing a group buy on Spec clutches and flywheels I'm potentially interested as well.
Alpina_B3_Lux
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How is your car reporting the misfire? Does it go into limp mode and reduced power? Mine went into limp mode at about 6000rpm in 4th yesterday and I have a feeling it has something to do with the FW and the vibrations.
I'm in the same boat and I've put the question to both Spec and HPF on the other forum about using their products together. With such a new clutch in mine I have no urge to change it. I'm getting these issues on just pump gas, I've not even fitted my meth kit back on yet
And it is highly interesting that your first flywheel had so much play in it as I had exactly the same issue with my replacement one at 10k. Even such that LUK saw fit to give me a refund as I had already bought a replacement one. I was doubtful that mine had failed so quickly but I suppose at these power levels anything is possible.