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For everyone wondering, yes you can do a lot of checks with the starter still mounted. If you have a light click when you try to start but no crank, this is most likely the starter solenoid. This verifies everything CAS-wise is happy.
Has the junction box battery positive recall been done? You can pull off the passenger front footwell cover and look for a fat red cable. Is it hot? Warm? Discoloured? Try jiggling it then cranking. Get this sorted ASAP.
Firstly check that your battery is still good (voltage ok at the battery itself, at the jump start terminal and also at the alternator). By checking at the alternator you are also doing a (very) basic integrity check of the starter lead which connects the jumpstart terminal to the starter to the alternator. Be sure to also inspect the crimped eyelet under the 13mm nut at the jump start point as it is known to corrode/dry rot and snap or fall out.
Make sure the car is in neutral/park and park brake on.
Remove the microfilter housing and gutter, remove the engine cover. Look into the gap between cyl 5 and 6 runners of the intake manifold and you'll see a copper cable and the battery positive connection to the starter. This is where you want to bridge to verify a stuck starter as it will supply battery power direct to the motor. Through this gap, it is a straight down shot at the copper cable with minimal risk of accidentally striking the housing or a grounded component.
To get you home, have an assistant attempt to start the engine while you strike the starter motor with a long 1/2" extension and hammer. You should be able to get a direct shot at it through the gaps of the manifold.
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