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Thanks! I have to admit, there were times where in the back of my mind I kept on saying "if I screw up, I'll just get it repainted at a body shop and put down the $600." Repairing curb rash is next. I have yet to find out if the paint code I got from BMW is the right one (I'm pretty sure it is though from the spray out test).
I covered the entire left side of the car with garbage bags making sure I get all windows, mirrors, lights, anything non-body colored. I used white bags because it was easier to see if I got any undesired spray making it easier for me to clean up later on if need be. I also put tape on all the rubber parts on the door sills and sealed off the door cracks during the priming phase with tape. Sorry no photos of those cause I was getting a bit lazy with the photos.
As for laying down the clear evenly, make sure you start off with an even surface so if the color coat is not perfect, I'd sand it down with 2000 grit sandpaper. I like to wetsand down the color coat (after the 30 mins that it takes before you can handle the paint - NEVER sand wet paint), let the surface dry for moisture, then spray an additional color coat on and then an even spray of clear coat. I then try to keep my clear coat layers as thin as possible spraying once every 5 to 10 mins after it's flash dried. Spraying too early will cause runs if the clear is still wet.
I also tend to go thicker for the clear than what's desired. I do this because when misting the paint, it creates a matte-like surface and I want to be able to sand it down quite a bit more to fix any runs that I might get. So I deliberately build up my clear coat thicker than I need just so I can bring it back down again with sanding. (usually 400 grit working to 2000 grit for repairing runs in my clear coat).
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