Quote:
Originally Posted by DeFKnoL
In the hypothetical situation that you were putting this system or an even beefier one into a 1-Series - and the lights did dim, would you consider installing a capacitor to compensate for the stress on the battery? The reason I ask is that I've heard mixed opinions on using capacitors in car systems.
Also, when connecting these amplifiers directly to the battery, isn't the alternator bypassed to the extent that the only stress on it would be the duty to re-charge the battery?
Just as a side note: In my first system (a 1996 Saab 900) where I used a Memphis Belle amp driving a single sub a 1 Ohm (1.1KW), I did have dimming issues at the high volumes when I used a sealed sub-box. When I ported it, there was much less stress on the electrical system and the dimming went away.
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I actually see it the other way round: When the car is running, everything in the car runs off the alternator output. It needs to charge the battery and power everything else. If we had Hondas, this would be hard. We don't - our alternators are pretty strong. Just because the amplifiers are connected to the battery physically doesn't mean the alternator isn't powering them.
If I did have that kind of problem, I would probably look at upgrading the alternator feed cable under the car before I looked at a capacitor. I'm not a big fan of caps. But again, if I were designing a system which I thought might have such a problem, I'd take that into account from step one.
A sealed box requires more power the lower notes it plays, in a pretty linear fashion. A vented box actually draws progressively less power as you approach the vent tuning frequency, the impedance is climbing and the amp can't drive more power into a higher impedance. So at the tuning frequency, the amp puts out very little power.