[Marv17]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Your setup is identical to mine (including bumper) and I was able to code mine in with ProTool. And yes you'll br able to tap i to the PT-CAN at the FRM. Where did you source your sensor? Mine's faulty; and the only thing stopping me from using it

That's good to know. Thanks. Glad it can be done with protool.
Praying it's all it takes. Don't want to go to the dealer.

I found it on ebay. It was kind of expensive but it came with everything new as a whole without having to piece it together. Just had to add a pin/wire on the ACC plug and go to the junkyard for the pigtail for the LDM since it didn't come with it. Today I'm going to wire it thru the firewall and do some connections.
Clock spring and stalk already on.
I've seen some sensors on ebay for not too horrible of a price.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by Marv17

That's good to know. Thanks. Glad it can be done with protool.
Praying it's all it takes. Don't want to go to the dealer.

I found it on ebay. It was kind of expensive but it came with everything new as a whole without having to piece it together. Just had to add a pin/wire on the ACC plug and go to the junkyard for the pigtail for the LDM since it didn't come with it. Today I'm going to wire it thru the firewall and do some connections.
Clock spring and stalk already on.
I've seen some sensors on ebay for not too horrible of a price.

The only thing you might have to do is calibrate it, which will require BMW Standard Tools (can be sourced for free on the internet). Did you source yours from EU ebay? US has nothing

[Marv17]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

The only thing you might have to do is calibrate it, which will require BMW Standard Tools (can be sourced for free on the internet). Did you source yours from EU ebay? US has nothing

Dang. I hope I don't need to calibrate it. It was used. Came from Florida I think, some state in the east coast, I'm in SoCal.
How to do I get a hold of this standard tool? Is it easy to calibrate it?

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by Marv17

Dang. I hope I don't need to calibrate it. It was used. Came from Florida I think, some state in the east coast, I'm in SoCal.
How to do I get a hold of this standard tool? Is it easy to calibrate it?

YouTube is your friend on this one. I believe it's ISTA that you need. Look up Vehicular DIY. He did this retrofit on his 335 following Nicko's guide. He did a good rundown. Can't remember if he calibrated it or not though. There should be something in the DIY about it. I haven't been able to do it myself. My sensor has a faulty heating element code which sends the entire cruise control system into limp mode. I haven't been able to get around it

[dzid_]

Originally Posted by sam9116

This was under the ACC page under Realoem.com

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...18#61138364666

You will need 61138364666 and 61138364662

What is the pin pitch of the LDM connector ?

EDIT:
It's the https://www.te.com/en/product-1-963539-2.html and it is 2.54mm pitch. It should be easy to DIY a connector.

[Marv17]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

YouTube is your friend on this one. I believe it's ISTA that you need. Look up Vehicular DIY. He did this retrofit on his 335 following Nicko's guide. He did a good rundown. Can't remember if he calibrated it or not though. There should be something in the DIY about it. I haven't been able to do it myself. My sensor has a faulty heating element code which sends the entire cruise control system into limp mode. I haven't been able to get around it

So I finished up the wiring today. I found out I already have a LDM module by the CAS from factory. I identified the PT CAN Hi and Low. I spliced into the wires as described in the diagram on page 17. Buttoned everything back up and coded the car with a new VO of 541, took off 544. My date on the FRM is March 2009 since I did swap it to the FRM2. Factory coded all the modules once the VO was changed. I turn on the car and got some error codes, dsc malfunction, and something about the TPMS. Went for a drive to see if there was anything different, there was an error with the cruise control.
When you used protool, what steps did you do? Want to go back and check everything tomorrow and see if I messed any steps.

[colorado.e9x]

Marv17 adding Active Cruise to VO, deleting the standard cruise from VO, factory coding CAS & FRM, and coding the module separately. Thats as far as I ever got. My heating element issue has stopped me from getting any further. This was back in November.

To add, I forgot my (VERY dead) battery was still connected when doing this so at some point during the job my key fob buttons stopped communicating with my car.

[Marv17]

Originally Posted by shannon1

.

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

.

Hey. Wanted to see if you have any advice. I already did all the connections. I coded the car, used protool since I don't have INPA or ISTA+. I have a 2006 325i, changed the VO from 544 to 541 and had all modules factory coded. I went to go for a drive to test and nothing. Only regular cruise control kicked in. No display on the cluster or adjustability worked. I checked that the new LDM had the vin changed.
I even swapped the LDM to the new one that I had gotten.
I did swap my stock cluster to a M3 DCT cluster a while ago. Would that make the ACC not function?

I'm at a lost right now.
If anyone can help let me know. Or if someone can do a remote coding to update the LDM hit me up. Please.

[colorado.e9x]

Marv17 Because of my heating element issue my cruise has never been able to work (at all) so can't tell ya much on that. ACC never came on M3s, and I don't believe their cluster (Kombi) has the ability to function with it as per Vehicular DIY's vid

[Marv17]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Marv17 Because of my heating element issue my cruise has never been able to work (at all) so can't tell ya much on that. ACC never came on M3s, and I don't believe their cluster (Kombi) has the ability to function with it as per Vehicular DIY's vid

Figured it out in the end. As I was driving back home from an errand I noticed the cruise speed was not the speed I set. I played with the stalk and the distance between the car in front changed. So I guess it is working. I swapped my old stock cluster back in. And then coded it factory so the ACC is aktive. And sure enough it showed up on the stock cluster. I noticed that the ACC sensor needs to be adjusted since I have to be in the left part of the lane so it detects the car in front of me. It's not straight. Had to order the 3.5mm socket to adjust it tomorrow once Amazon drops off the order.

Wish someone knew a way to get into the coding part of the m3 cluster to active the icon, if that were even possible. Wishful thinking.

[dumitru.o]

ii had M3 cluster on e92 325 M57. you need to sawwp the LEDs and resitors from another non M cluster because the M cluster doesn t have them on the PCB

[sam9116]

Originally Posted by dzid_

What is the pin pitch of the LDM connector ?

EDIT:
It's the https://www.te.com/en/product-1-963539-2.html and it is 2.54mm pitch. It should be easy to DIY a connector.

haha, I just cut mine off of an existing 2006 3 series that came with LDM

also finally completed the retrofit

my adjustment bolt on the acc module was heavily corroded. I had to pay another 200$ US for a shop to drill out the old adjustment bolts.

the threads for one of the bolts did not survive the drilling. So I had to pay for a helicoil kit to repair the threads. the thread dimension is M5 x 0.8 mm if anybody encounters the same problem.

Without working adjustment bolts you cannot perform calibration

also, since BMW no longer sells replacement adjustment bolts (66316786711), I had to buy from VW/Audi, part number is
4H0998561

After sorting out the adjustment bolts I could finally mount the radar to the car, then I got the dealer to do the radar sensor calibration.

They were a bit shocked since they were not expecting such an old model to have ACC

[dumitru.o]

ACC was first installed on E38 7 series in the 1994 if i am not mistaken

[Marv17]

Originally Posted by dumitru.o

ii had M3 cluster on e92 325 M57. you need to sawwp the LEDs and resitors from another non M cluster because the M cluster doesn t have them on the PCB

Do you know which resistors are needed to swap over?? I can see the LEDs to swap over.

[Marv17]

Originally Posted by sam9116

haha, I just cut mine off of an existing 2006 3 series that came with LDM

also finally completed the retrofit

my adjustment bolt on the acc module was heavily corroded. I had to pay another 200$ US for a shop to drill out the old adjustment bolts.

the threads for one of the bolts did not survive the drilling. So I had to pay for a helicoil kit to repair the threads. the thread dimension is M5 x 0.8 mm if anybody encounters the same problem.

Without working adjustment bolts you cannot perform calibration

also, since BMW no longer sells replacement adjustment bolts (66316786711), I had to buy from VW/Audi, part number is
4H0998561

After sorting out the adjustment bolts I could finally mount the radar to the car, then I got the dealer to do the radar sensor calibration.

They were a bit shocked since they were not expecting such an old model to have ACC

That's a heavy charge just to take out bolts. Could've soaked it in WD40 or another lubricant/oil.
Well glad you were able to get it mounted and installed in the end.
Thank you for the part number for the adjustment bolts. Found them on Aliexpress for like $1.00, so I ordered two sets just to have as backup.

[Destiny_Apocalipse]

Hi community, sorry if i'm not doing well the presentation on forum but i can't find the appropriate post

I would thanks all the users that have leave a contribution to do this guide and all other stuff!

I would to start mine retrofit for ACC (ACC1 is enough for me) but first I have some doubts to clarify.

My car is a E60 PRE-LCI (K-Line) with AHL Xenon and normal Cruise Control.
I would to know if in my case is enough to buy Radar Sensor, Stalk and the Wire to a working ACC.
This is my actual Configuration on INPA:






For what i can see I have LDM even if is not properly visualized in IDENT and UIF of INPA, someone can check if is all ok?

For the cluster seems there are already the indicators for acc but with self test won't turn on, maybe because is not coded?

Anyway for now i would to know these things if possible.

Thanks in advance!

[Marv17]

Originally Posted by Destiny_Apocalipse

.

I would reference realoe.com to see what items to get, not sure if the e60 shared the exact parts as the e9x's.


Finally buttoned up everything. Ended up sticking with the M cluster I had retrofitted from before, even though it doesn't have the ACC indication lights on the cluster. (Lame). Tried to solder on the LEDs from a donor cluster but it didn't work, guess there's more to it than just adding the LEDs. If anyone knows how to add this to a M cluster let me know.
Had to cut the lower grill to make it fit. Wish M cars had the option so the lower grill would be available.
Got extra adjustment screws on Aliexpress for like $5 shipped for two sets. For just in case.
Pictures of the end project.

[Marv17]

Originally Posted by Destiny_Apocalipse

...

Found this on ebay today. I'd get it now before it disappears. Only one that comes up.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/25642852116...mis&media=COPY

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by Marv17

Had to cut the lower grill to make it fit. Wish M cars had the option so the lower grill would be available.
Pictures of the end project.

I feel ya. I have a ring I'm thinking of adding to mine as a trim piece

[Marv17]

Originally Posted by dumitru.o

Work in progress

We missed one SMD (red circled) and the car icon doesn t light up in red. Will swap the SMD tomorrow then test the kombi back on the car

So far so good

Hey. Here are some photos of the board of the stock cluster. Do you by chance remember which resistors you swapped over?
I already swapped the one in red.