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      04-29-2024, 10:47 AM   #1
Gamma
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Need advise on PP82DSP

I have the opportunity to pick up a bimmertech PP82DSP used. My 2010 328i has the base stereo. Would I be able to use the 2/4 harness from technic or would there be a better option to run the speaker wires to this amp? I am keeping the idrive head unit as well.
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      04-29-2024, 11:53 AM   #2
mattanderson
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Isn't the point of that one that it just plugs right in (the black plug)?
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      04-29-2024, 11:56 AM   #3
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Yes but I wasn’t sure if my base system would plug in to this harness or not.
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      04-29-2024, 12:07 PM   #4
mattanderson
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Sorry, missed the base detail, haven't had enough coffee this morning.

I think you are right that you need a conversion harness in that case.
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      04-29-2024, 02:29 PM   #5
ctuna
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Base system has no amp in the Trunk or wiring to the Trunk .
Plug in is only possible if you have the 676 system or program your
car for the 676 and get a harness.

Base System Guide
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...5&d=1493273253

base system wiring pre/post 3/09
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...tDpLJPcGkw_ui_

I would get the Technic 4/6 harness as described in the base system guide .
Then follow the guide.
You can also try to fabricate your own harness if you have the skills and are willing
to spend some time tracking down and assembling the parts.
There are threads on here describing both processes.

BMW stereo types
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352586
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1266451970
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780865
http://bmwcoders.com/forum/3-er-8/bm...1-e92-e93-291/
http://technicpnp.com/menuDiagrams/d...e90_92_93.html
http://www.musicarnw.com/page-2/
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...3&d=1169133185
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...4&d=1278871872
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343673
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/e...n-752.1275694/

base system wiring pre/post 3/09
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...tDpLJPcGkw_ui_
Base System Guide
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...5&d=1493273253
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      04-29-2024, 02:32 PM   #6
Gamma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Base system has no amp in the Trunk or wiring to the Trunk .
Plug in is only possible if you have the 676 system or program your
car for the 676 and get a harness.

Base System Guide
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...5&d=1493273253

base system wiring pre/post 3/09
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...tDpLJPcGkw_ui_

I would get the Technic 4/6 harness as described in the base system guide .
Then follow the guide.
You can also try to fabricate your own harness if you have the skills and are willing
to spend some time tracking down and assembling the parts.
There are threads on here describing both processes.

BMW stereo types
[intlink]352586;E9X audio systems defined[/intlink]
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1266451970
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780865
http://bmwcoders.com/forum/3-er-8/bm...1-e92-e93-291/
http://technicpnp.com/menuDiagrams/d...e90_92_93.html
http://www.musicarnw.com/page-2/
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...3&d=1169133185
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
[intlink]641323;Audio Table [...]
The only harness technic has now is the 2/4. Do you know of any good amps that would work with this?
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      04-29-2024, 02:37 PM   #7
ctuna
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It's just amps or amp/dsp and electricity you need to educate yourself on that.
There is no way around that. Draw your layout on paper and try to understand it.

Do a search for 82dsp a lot of threads will come up .
And learn how to tune a DSP if that is what you are buying.

You will need speakers to no matter what the stock base speakers are crap .

Nothing wrong with the 82dsp try downloading the manual and reading it.
Audiotec Fisher website has a lot of good info.

You could change the 2/4 harness into a 4/6 minus the turn on relay by running the rear channel wires to the amp inputs then running an output from the amp to
the rear channels.
Or just ignore the rear channels.

Last edited by ctuna; 04-29-2024 at 02:50 PM..
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      04-29-2024, 03:29 PM   #8
Gamma
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Thanks for your suggestions. I ordered the 2/4 harness and think im just going to first find and install amp, then replace all fronts and forget about the rears.
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      04-29-2024, 05:23 PM   #9
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Don't do anything with the rear speakers - they are pointless and ruin the wonderful stereo staging (the effect of feeling like driving towards the music).

I made that mistake when bought some semi decent ones.
Now i have them turned way down so they don't ruin the front concert.

I'd definitely suggest thinking on rear subwoofer also when you plan to put a DSP.
Since you can now fine tune it so it does not produce frequencies that rattle but can play to its limits.
In my case only 125hz for some reason produces rattles (corner loaded 10" sealed) and its easy to tune out this particular frequency so i can crank bass up sometimes and it fills the whole interior smoothly plus gives nice kicks to the seat.

You could also buy a good mic like UMIK-1 and fix most of the frequency dips/spikes to get most out of your audio.

By design the 4" to 8" jump is limited at what it can deliver (what you will discover when playing around with mic/tuning) and is only fixed by adding 6.5" to the doors but that means 9+ channels DSP/AMP to keep the active system.

I tried the passive filters that came with jehnert but did not like how they tuned it + it slightly complicated things to get all speakers play at somewhat equal level at all volumes all the way to the max.

Last edited by Captain Buumer; 04-29-2024 at 05:37 PM..
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      04-29-2024, 05:38 PM   #10
Gamma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Buumer View Post
Don't do anything with the rear speakers - they are pointless and ruin the wonderful stereo staging (the effect of feeling like driving towards the music).

I made that mistake when bought some semi decent ones.
Now i have them turned way down so they don't ruin the front concert.

I'd definitely suggest thinking on rear subwoofer also when you plan to put a DSP.
Since you can now fine tune it so it does not produce frequencies that rattle but can play to its limits.
In my case only 125hz for some reason produces rattles (corner loaded) and its easy to tune out this particular frequency so i can crank bass up sometimes and it fills the whole interior smoothly plus gives nice kicks to the seat (sealed subwoofer).

You could also buy a good mic like UMIK-1 and fix most of the frequency dips/spikes to get most of your audio.
Correct me if I’m wrong but couldn’t I tap into the bottom 2 woofers and have that go to a sub in the trunk? I ordered a alpine mrx-f30 4 channel amp and the 2/4 harness from technic. I also have a mr12volt box on the way which says it has a dsp so I was going to try reducing the treble there and if it doesn’t work as intended I would look to code the HU to hifi with BimmerCode.
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      04-29-2024, 07:17 PM   #11
ctuna
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Your all over the place at first you where going to add the 82dsp now you are going to do something else . The primary thing to do in a base system is to seperate the doors
from floors on a separate channel . If you are doing a trunk sub that is something else
again. Usually the better amps have a Sub out or two to feed a trunk sub.
If you are going for just a trunk sub and the doors you will have no mid range without
the under seats this is a typical bass head configuration.
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      04-30-2024, 03:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Buumer View Post
Don't do anything with the rear speakers - they are pointless and ruin the wonderful stereo staging (the effect of feeling like driving towards the music).

I made that mistake when bought some semi decent ones.
Now i have them turned way down so they don't ruin the front concert.

I'd definitely suggest thinking on rear subwoofer also when you plan to put a DSP.
Since you can now fine tune it so it does not produce frequencies that rattle but can play to its limits.
In my case only 125hz for some reason produces rattles (corner loaded 10" sealed) and its easy to tune out this particular frequency so i can crank bass up sometimes and it fills the whole interior smoothly plus gives nice kicks to the seat.

You could also buy a good mic like UMIK-1 and fix most of the frequency dips/spikes to get most out of your audio.

By design the 4" to 8" jump is limited at what it can deliver (what you will discover when playing around with mic/tuning) and is only fixed by adding 6.5" to the doors but that means 9+ channels DSP/AMP to keep the active system.

I tried the passive filters that came with jehnert but did not like how they tuned it + it slightly complicated things to get all speakers play at somewhat equal level at all volumes all the way to the max.
he has to dear with the rear speakers, otherwise the rear PDC level will not be adequate to front level
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